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What exactly is included in the annual maintenance for a 2004 330Ci car?

First problem code PO300, repairs made, replaced plugs, wires, rotor and cap. Problem went away for two weeks and code PO300 re-appeared. Repaired made replaced the CMP sensor. The engine was fine for a week or so, the check engine light returned, found code PO306, and PO507, found and replaced defective vacuum hose. Code PO507 cleared but PO306 failed. Engine runs fine, comp. is okay, no noise from engine, smooth acce. starts fine. The problem is the misfire in the # 6 cylinder.

The A/C works perfectly as long as the interior of the vehicle is cool or cooled. When the temp rises above 90 degrees F., the A/C compressor will not cycle on and the climate control blows like it was a hair dryer on high.

My Windstar SE Sport has no ac in the front, but it does in the back. My ABS light, brake light, and engine light is always on. It stalls at lights. Both my rear windows dont open. But my most important, whats up with the ac.

I was driving along when the service engine soon light came on which is the check engine light. i hooked my code reader up to it and it said something like 1000 dtc.i cleared the light and it stayed off.what does thiscode mean?

when changing the back breaks how would you close the calipers to get the new pads on the car.

When vehicle is moving.

I'm about to change my AC Compressor, just want to know if I have recharge the system after I change it. (will I have to add Freon gas)

The problem occur when the vehicle is running at a sustain speed of 100 to 120 kph. No indication on engine overheating but temperature gauge indicates an intermittent rise in temperature. This causes also the warming of AC system when temperature gaute starts to indicate rise in temperature.

- had a complete tune up and the gas filter replaced, but she keeps sounding like she's going to conk out unless I keep giving her gas. At red lights and stop signs I need to keep one foot on the break and one on the gas. She feels like she's breaking up while driving. My mechanic is frustrated. We're thinking it could be the computer (the breaking up sort of feels like as if it were a light switch going on and off) but don't want to spend that money unless we really have to. Help!

the car is running rough and the check engine light, check vsc, and traction light are on...the car has 55k miles

How do i replace the cv shaft on this here particular audi

and back to normal at freeway speed.

Starts right up but won't allow me to accelerate with ease. If I rev it up to say 3500 and then gradually let out the clutch I can get up to some speed but no zip.

My car was actually okayas fair as running then I got a crack in the front plastic piece thats on side of radiator. Only when warmed up it would start to release steam , so I would turn it off let it cool add more fluid, never let it get hot. Then I got a new radiator for it and me and my boyfriend installed it. When we took it out of the box I noticed it was a bit different , called shop. they said it was the right radiator , so we installed it and 2 gallons of antifreeze/ coolant. took it for test drive , 2 miles down road it started to get warm but I turned it off , cooled it drove straight home parked it . Called radiator shop they gave me mans # for car repairs. They have done all kinds of things and ended up blowing my top radiator hosr causing my car to overheat. Im goin crazy here. it ran fine till the new radiator was put on and no one is listening to me. What to do?