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A local oil change place told me that my power steering fluid needed to be replaced or bunch of bad things will happen. My car has about 120k miles and I don't recall if the power steering fluid has been changed. I am the original owner.

We dropped the pan, found no metal shavings, did this because three times, following a slow down and stop and then a lightly accelerated pull forward, it went, but very slowly, like it was not engaging. Once I put it in reverse and it backed right up and then put it in drive and it took right off. The other two times I was pulling up to a gas pump, slowed to a stop and then went to pull more forward and it did the same thing, but then both times took right off and I haven't had a problem with it since....any deas? Fluid was good when checked as well.

4 days ago, the car would not shift out of park and had no brake lights coming on. Used shift lock release, started in neutral, and took to dealer. Dealer replaced the Brake Switch. One day later, problem returned. Took back to dealer, they said the 15 light blue stop fuse had blown. They replaced. Worked for a day, problem came back. Each time I put a new 15 fuse in, it works temporarily, but now fries either immediately or within 4 hours, and so still can't get the car out of park still and no brake lights come on. How to fix this?

hello I started with a blown head gasket and number five cylinder i pulled the motor out of the car i also put a new oil pump in, water and oil pump main timing chains and the two secondary timing chains new crank spocket and both cam gears are all new it runs good until the p0016 code pops up after couple minutes of runing, i also replaced the crank sensor and cam sensor and im not sure what else to do. please help!!!

We have replaced the control panel cluster but it is still doing it

why is it that every time i put my truck on the computer it reads the iac valve and i have changed it many times so now i am stomped

How does one repair this ? and How do you repair this ?

The MMI has been replaced. The dealer says that the instrument cluster must be replaced ($1500). Does the cluster really need to be replaced?

IDLING ROUGH JUMPS 4000RPMS THN UP & ND DOWN. BRAKE VERY STIFF.

the car will not start and the alarm stytem goes off everytime I open the doors. The remote is broken so cant use that and the door lock buttons on the door panels do not work either. If I jump the car it will start but when I try to start it with the key is dont start. I had the battery checked and it is good. where do I go from here.

I have the replacement engine.

My dad recently replaced my tie rod ends and upper control arms (L&R) 3mo ago; ever since there have been crazy sounds...a creaking sound whenever I apply my brakes & terrible clunking noises whenever driving over uneven road surfaces. Before the work, you could hear general squeaking like that of an old spring bed & some clunking noise but now it's crazy annoying & worrisome. Furthermore, last DEC a Baltimore mechanic told me that the clunking stemmed from the need to replace upper control arms in my rear wheels; overall, I didn't get a good vibe from him or shop mgr.

1990 Acura Legend LS (V6)

Furthermore, all interior lights (panel & console excluded) & cig-lighter stopped working maybe 2months ago; there's also been a faint radar-like beeping when engine is started (not always heard & tends to stop after a short time; once it persisted during a 2hr drive). Could it all be related?

A service engine light has come on and the brace that is connected to the hydraulic and motor is broken.

Car just started dying after starting, it will run for a few seconds and then just die. After you let it sit for a while it will start back up again and stay running. Sometimes, it can run all day and stay that way,but recently it will just die and takes several attempts to get it to stay running. I replaced the fuel pump, and a couple of months ago the timing belt and the crankshaft position censors were replaced.