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Repair manual for R500.

My battery is weak.

I removed the leaking old one, but am having no luck installing the new one. [BMW engine tech regulator from advanced auto parts # 32501] it looks the same and seems like the same fine threads. I've tried every which way to get it to catch but no luck. Any suggestions.

WATER WAS IN SPARE TIRE AREA AND PASSENGER SIDE WHEEL WELD. i FOUND A PLUG AND A PLASTIC TUBE 12" LONG WHERE DOES IT GO 1994 ALTMA

Since 2008 of May I have had a persistent check engine light come ON then OFF only after the problem was thought to have been fixed by the Chevy dealer. Light would stay OFF for weeks or months with no engine light when car codes have been diagnosed and components replaced, only for the light to reappear again. This has stumped this Chevrolet dealership service dept. in Acton, MA. for the last 1 1/2 years with my 1998 Camaro Z28 5.7L with 150,000 miles but running good 20/21 mpg 50/50 city/highway on average. In the last 1 1/2 years I have replaced the left side cats twice, aftermarket cats by Custom Exhausts in Reading, and went thru 6 O2 new GM sensors, 2 new GM air pumps, and still my engine light remains on (not blinking), this after 3 complete diagnostic scans by dealer with valid codes worked on by dealer too. Unrelated back in 1998-1999 under the mfr. warranty, I’ve had 2 fuel pumps in tank replaced along with a bad Map Sensor, and did not have an engine light come on until recently in 2008. I recently tried going back to 93 Octane after 10 years of using 87 Octane with no luck in turning off this persistent engine light that currently remains on. After 2 tanks of 93 and no success with it turning light off, I went back to 87. I get no Knocking with any octane. Dealer says to just keep chasing down the codes until it’s finally fixed but this car is nickel and diming me to bankruptcy. Massachusetts has very strict annual car inspections. It’s a shame a simple engine light can do in a great car that goes thru regular routine maintainence. In self-diagnostic road tests recently I notice all the time now that when I accelerate hard the transmission stumbles as if the air pump has gone faulty again. The automatic transmission runs great and normal around town but seems it can’t get into high gear and stumbles and hesitates and is not smooth on hard acceleration only from 0 - 100, but the transmission will behave normally smooth when accelerating easily 0 - 100 mph. All fluids are up to level. Tranny fluids were replenished at 60,000. All 150,000 miles have seen only easy driving. With normal driving both city and highway the car runs great all around but with an engine light on. The general engine scans codes point back to the cat. If this is so, why did I run with no light for 7 months on this replaced cat. How can a cat be so out of spec that it plays havoc on the O2 sensors? New O2 sensors are also giving codes of low voltage too. If I replace the Cat with a G.M. replacement it will be a costly mistake if the engine light remains on and I've learned that GM does not make cats for this car anymore, so is there a way to bypass the cat or o2 sensors on diagnostic scans? some say I may have destroyed the knock sensors by using 87 octane since 1998. I do not hear any knocking noise. Can a pin hole leak in the Y pipe be welded closed too?

I have not looked at the windows yet, but need to know how tough it will be to get to them and repair any problems with electric windows I might come across.

wether getting cold and i starting to see the problam in the morning again, in cold wether only. The missfire only last for few seconds but it lives the check engine light.Which is #4 missfire. Every time its happening when you drive the car for one mile, its funny because every day morning after living home and when i get a same spote the car start missfire.it seems like missfire starts when the Temp.gauge start to come up and stop missfire when gauge reach at middle. my spark plugs are new and plug wires new,i swap the coil pack from my friends subaru, my timing belt done by delar year back. plug and wire are oem. thanks

Where is the power steering reservoir located at on this vehicle?

will a U480 OBD2 Car Diagnostic Fault Code Reader Scanner work on a volvo s60t thanks

A couple minutes after the car is started the airbag light comes on, at the same time there is a beep from the dash. that is when those things stop working. Everything else seems to be fine. Any ideas.

My interior lights will not turn on when the door is open. When I press on the door plunger there is a clicking sound under the dash somewhere. I have the dimmer switch all the way into the on position. When the door is open a door ajar light illuminates on the intrument panel but the lights will not turn on inside the car.

One-owner convertible, 2.7L V6, 61000 miles, Eng Svc Light has come on when car is started and remains on. It does not flash. What are the possibilities please? Fuel cap is secure

The espeedometer work fine and no check engine light on

Doing a clutch pressure plate throw out bearing clutch fork and fork ball replacement when trying to remove trans input bearing at rear of crank shaft not enough bearing left to remove with anything I have on hand is it permissable to use a small die grinder to reach into the back of the crank shaft and carefully grind the remaining bearing into then remove over 3/16 of brass bearing left deep in hole

It happens all the time I will not let her drive it!