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Dealer changed the Servo Motor in Feb. Now Oct. they are telling me the Evaporator air box assembly needs replacement for $2400+. What is going on?
Believe I actual know the location but is it as difficult to remove as it appears?
I have a 98 Ford Ranger, 5 speed MT. When first started, the engine runs fine, but after the engine heats up a bit, it will peg out. This is really noticeable when at a stop light with the clutch depressed. It will run at max RPM's for a while and then suddenly drop off to nornmal. Once the light turns green though, the trouble returns. The only recourse I have is to put it in 5th gear and almost bog the engine down. I've replaced every vacuum related part, springs and even adjusted the idle to as low as I could get and still maintain the engine running.. I have been told that the Fan clutch is failing and should replace it, but this couldn't be the problem, could it? I have acquired some .45 caliber Jacketed Hollow-points and am thinking of taking her out to pasture. She's been good to me, so I'd like to keep her around a bit longer..
Replaced plugs & wires on all cyls. Now it is setting code po306, po171, p0174. Checked compression on #6 its ok. Engine is still running rough.
Autozone retrieved code for me. Air/fuel sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2. Probable cause open or short circuit condition or poor electrical connection. Will replacing sensor fix the problem? Is this something a do it yourselfer can fix easily? Where is the sensor located exactly? Thanks!
wondering if the engine would be damaged by making this change now on an 03 model.....
Restart solves the problem
rear pads replaced and rotors turned and they are quoting me about $368.00 for each set. Is this legit? I am an old bag on a limited income and I need to not be taken advangage of. Thanks for any help.
brake pedal goes down too far
P0141 O2 sensor heater circuit
P0717 Input/turbine speed sensor circuit
Whenever I start the car after it has sat for greater than 15 minutes and either the AC is already on or I turn it on there is an extremely loud screeching noise that stops when I turn the blower off. It will eventually stop screeching after I use the AC for a few minutes. I had this checked while I was getting an oil change and the ran the car just like I told them and the whole place stopped what they were doing (a 6 bay Firestone). The technician told me to have the dealer check it out but to this day they can't get it to happen. Once when I picked it up from them the screeching happened right next to an open bay and no one inside heard it but all the patrons on the sales floor and outside covered their ears. It is so loud that my passengers have covered their ears even with the windows closed. Any ideas?
I HAVE ALREADY REMOVED THE HUB AND LOOSENED THE DIFFERENTIAL COVER FROM THE DRIVER SIDE BUT CANNOT REMOVE COVER DUE TO TRANNY BEING IN THE WAY
sometimes the reverse lights will just stay on, and when hitting bumps they flicker. the back up alarm also beeps on and off with bumps, we pulled the fuse to that because it bothers our patients.
pressure tested everything seems fine, but still overheats last night a hose at the rear of the engine came off along with a small plastic piece what could this mean?
drivers side door doesn't close properly, unless slammed.