Car QuestionsRefine by vehicle
the shifting problems occur sometimeswhen the car is warmed up. you dont have to drive it but 30 miles and it will start shifting extremely hard. it only has 85000 miles on it and the car has not been beat tranny tluid is full. please answer as soon as possible
asked around nobody can tell me what the problem is. don't want to go to the dealer to have them over charge me.when i step o the gas pedal when the car is in park or neautral nothing happen.i have a 04 lincoln ls
So i flooded my 1996 honda passport about 2 moths ago(hood was underwater). (yes i know my dumb A$$ falt).
And since then it has not start checked starter its fine as well as the alt, battery, replaced all the fuses and relays but still no start( like the starter is not even kicking in but its getting power.
so with the starter i tested the wire coming from the ignition and there is no power getting to it so i am thinking about replacing the ignition switch and all the wiring for it to the starter.
Go ahead or anything else i should try first
Est cost of job: $250
shifting properly and then keep it from starting?
start. acts like its not getting fuel.what is wrong?
I got it to move back a half inch by pulling and ewisting it but can not get it the rest of the way.
when i turn on the a/c and put the mode to front vents they will not open to blow the air, the sides and bottom of dash work and front defrosters work and even the rear a/c blows air, i haved researched this and it looks like it could be a couple things, maybe created by a new battery changed, or a few things gone bad? can i take the battery terminal off the negative side for a few minutes and then reconnect and start the car, then turn off and restart to reactivate the blend actuator? to reset and then they will work or will this do more bad then good? and it that wont work what can i do, i would like to do this myself can you help me
The rear end in my mothers vehicle suddenly seemed like it has almost completely went out. The ABS light came on and when I drove it the rear end felt like and sounded like it was coming out. Popping, grinding, etc... It also on several occasions hardly wouldn't even pull out of its tracks.
I took it to my local dealer to have them inspect it and give me an estimate on repairing. On the way there the thing seemed to start doing a little better but a message came on the dash that said something about checking the limited slip differential. I'm not sure if that's exactly what it read as I was only about 2 minutes from dropping it off at the dealer when it came on.
The slip/traction light was also going on and off when the rear end was slipping.
That said, I received a call from the tech at the dealer today and he said that it was a bad rear abs sensor that was causing the problem and it would cause them to slip as it would cause it to send false readings to the differential.
He gave me a price to replace the sensor and said the book called for 2.5 hrs of labor (high labor seemingly) and the cost of the sensor. I asked him if he was sure that this was the problem and he said that he wasn't a 100% sure but his guess was in the higher percent of being what he thinks is the proper diagnosis.
I told him to go ahead and order the part and replace it and let me know when it was done, but late this afternoon I got to thinking could a simple sensor cause that much trouble all of a sudden? Is there more wrong than just that? Is 2.5 hrs of labor at $110 per hour too much to bill for changing a sensor that should seemingly only take at minimum an hour? Unless it could be an internal sensor? I'm not sure but I have changed break pads before and know that the speed sensors are fairly easy to get to on most vehicles.
I don't really know for sure. These are just some questions I'll have to ask them when we speak next, but I thought I'd seek a little advise about the issue at hand from some unbiased individuals and just get an idea of weather or not I may have a more major issue even after shelling out $300 plus on replacing a sensor.
Oh, and another thing the tech told me that either the car was reading zero mph when the wheel turned, or the wheel was reading zero mph. Not exactly sure exactly how he said it and please keep in mind that I'm not quoting his every word. I just want to be clear that I may have some misinterpretations of what he explained to me.
Thanks in advance for your responses.
turn car on and off several times to get it to idle correctly.
I just put new spark plugs, air filter, and wires on my truck. Ever since, my truck has been making a popping noise, and is very sluggish when accelerating to highway speed, Any ideas what could be causing this. I did find a vacuum line that the previous owner put a bolt in the end. I can't find where this is going to. Is this a possible reason for truck being sluggish? The previous owner said he did a tune up on the truck a couple of weeks before I bought it, in Feb of this year. Based on the condition of the plugs and wires, I don't thing so. The wires were of 2 different styles.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
blower motor only works on HIGH
After driving for a brief period of time, if you stop the car (e.g. to run an errand) when you get back in- it will not start. The engine revs but never turns over. It has always started back up but sometimes after a long 20 minutes. We have been back to the dealer twice- but still are having the same damn problem $3000.00 later. They replaced the fuel pump & filter, crankshaft sensor, intake boots, disa valve, vent valve and idle valve. Please help!!
Had the car in and out of shops for a year. It will work perfect for a while and then stalls out no reason on when it will stall out. Have to have it towed in OR wait till the next morning and it will crank right up and go.
LIKE SOMETHING IS BROKE IN THE INSIDE. WHEN U TURN THE VEHICLE ON AND SHIFT INTO DRIVE IT IDOLS LIKE ITS IN NEUTRAL.
Is there a history of problems of this type on Santa Fes?