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It starts first time in the morning and the rest of the day it takes 5 to 8 cranks to get it to start.
The transmission went out and it has several other issues. Is it worth it to replace this or should we just start over trying to find another one?
plugs and wires have been changed, checked for vacuum leaks and no rips or damage to intake comps
my windshield wipers go on their own and my car has to de driven with two feet It has shut off on the freeway in traffic when i have to slow down I have had the throttle cleaned, spark plugs replaced now what do i do? Oh yeah half of the panel lights are out on y climate and radio control and radio goes in and out.
I can find where to add the transmission oil.
I have seen in diagrams that you need all these special tools is this correct or can you do it with tools that are normally in your tool box
Engine hesitates, hesitates, coughs, sputters and loses power
(sorry for the long post, but I am trying to be thorough with my description)
This is my wife's car, so I normally don't drive it much. Car has 110000 miles on it. Does not have ABS.
Original symptom reported by my wife (I did not experience it myself): while waiting in the long line to drop my daughter at school, the brake pedal would slowly go to the floor when sitting and creeping at idle with the automatic transmission in drive. When I checked the brake fluid reservoir, it was not noticeably low. It was well above the min mark. I think it was at or close to the max mark.
There were no signs of leakage. I figured this had to be a worn master cylinder, so I replaced the master cylinder and bled the system at all four wheels (in order of decreasing brake line length) using a vacuum bleeder system. Used DOT 3 fluid. During a test drive it performed normally.
Yesterday we were 2 hours into a four hour drive and the brake light illuminated on the instrument panel. I opened the hood and discovered the fluid in the reservoir was to the min mark. I refilled the reservoir and we continued, with me paying close attention to brake feel. Up to this point I had not noticed anything unusual. From this point on the brakes performed okay but the pedal did seem slightly soft. At the end of the drive, the fluid level was again low -- about half way between min and max. Then my wife also reported that after I had replaced the master cylinder, the sinking pedal symptom had happened twice in about 5 weeks.
I am now trying to identify the leak in my garage. I see no evidence at all of a fluid leak. I have the car up on jack stands and the wheels off. I removed the rear drums -- no sign of leakage at the slave cylinders. No sign of leakage at the front slave cylinders, master cylinder or lines. With the engine running, I can push the brake pedal very hard with both feet and hold it, and I don't feel any sinking. I've pressed the pedal hard and easy many times, held it for a minute or so multiple times. The pedal might sink just a little but it is pretty hard to tell and it feels more like my imagination than anything real. In all my pedal pushing over the course of 30 minutes or so, the fluid reservoir level did drop some (about midway between min and max). That's not a huge amount of fluid but it is enough that I would have thought I'd definitely see it leaking somewhere.
Where could the fluid be going? Obviously I need to figure this out and repair it before I put the car on the road again. I'll take it to a shop if I can't figure it out but I'd prefer to do the work myself.
I do my own oil change.
Replaced the ps pump and the rack and pionion. When the van is off ground, it turns w/o any problems. Once you put it back on the ground it is like there is no power steering again.
No squealing when turning the wheel. The van was given to me, that is why they got rid of it Any suggestions Thanks
I'm looking at buying a used car that looks to be in good condition. What would be the average time that this car would need a clutch replacement? It has 112K miles.
Also, do these cars need timing belts and if so, at what mileage intervals?
I'm trying to anticipate if there are any major expenses I would have to deal with beyond the purchase price of $1200.
was unable to turn the key past the first segment. locked and unlocked the steering wheel...turned it and attempted to turn key further. car is in park. Unable to move gear forward. Car just locked up. Power with first key turn segment allows electric windows and stuff. told it was probably an ignition switch
no problems with it just want to replace it.
I wanted to know if it's the solinoid instead of the entire starter and if it's substantially cheaper to just replace the solinoid as when it does connect, sometimes 4 or 5 attempts at turning the key, the car starts fine.
i have spend $1100 and now he say its the ecm computer.missing,jumping,cant do over 35mph.