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I have a vat key that broke off in the ignitiomn
One day the car would not start, a mechanic told me that it gave him the code for a bad computer module.
also I'm stuck H4 and I can't get back to N without the lights on the tires turning on.
2002 Passat GLS 1.8T Sedan - $61k miles
Reason for Check Engine Light (#1, 2, 3)
#1 Diagnostic Procedure 5052 - Bank 1, Sensor #2 internal resistance too high
- Replace O2 Sensor #2 =$199 parts + $200 labor = $400 plus tax
#2 System too lean - all vacuum hoses are broke $24 parts + $200 Labor = $224 + Tax
#3 Also Misfire in cylinder #3 and #4 - spark plugs are wasted $18x4= $72 parts + $100 Labor = $172 + Tax
#4 Coolant bottle is completely dirty, needs a new bottle and a flush - $290
#5 40k Tune Up = $750 (which is odd because I'm at $61k)
I have intalled a new brake switch. this happens whether the headlights are on auto or manuel. the auto fuction is always on and can not be turned off,if you switch it off it just reactivates when you turn the switch on.
I ALREADY RELACED THE SILENOID,ONE DAY LATER THE ENGINE LIGHT WENT BACK ON...
now what? The back shocks are being replaced next, could that have anything to do with the noise, appears it is coming from under front fender well. I have nothing to jack up the car to look for myself.
The heat control bar has one arrow showing all the way on H and after 30 seconds all the arrows start flashing from C to H and then after about 60 seconds stops flashing with no arrows showing,Ihave removed the actuator motor and the door is not stuck,does this mean the actuator is bad or is there another issue. Thank You in advance... Wildman63
im having a problem removing old cover
car just shuts down,and or misses often.
I had this code p0420 for almost 3 years, but the light goes ON and OFF so somehow i passed the emissions, but now it's getting closer again and don't know what to do. I guess it's a air leak, but any ideas how to find and where to look for a air leak? The other code p0299 i have no idea, it's for my turbo, but the turbo works most of the time and sometimes when i push the gas pedal down the turbo don't works, so i am assuming maybe it's a air leak that is causing this two error.
Thank you !
I have isolated the front from the rear and determined the front is the cause to the pedal bleeding down. I bleed numerous times. Booster works perfectly, no air leaks. Only rear abs. I also replaced both calipers. To isolate the front, I disconnected the rear brake line from the master cylinder and plugged it. Pedal goes to the floor slowly. I disconnected both lines from master cylinder and plugged. The cylinder locks up, no movement.
Have had to rebuildthe A.O.D. automatic transmission, put in new clutch plates, band, and seals. Also put in new oil pump, and tork converter. I thought it was the valve body, so re-pulled thetransmission and went through the valve body. Still won't shift. This exact problem is what caused me to do the overhaul. Problem is still there. Anyone know the answer to this problem?
I had a P0300 code. Changed out fuel filter, throttle position sensor, cat converter, and coil for cylinder 2&3. The i got the P0420 code. If I just changed the cat with a brand new one, how can it be inefficient? Thanks for the Help.