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When driving down road the van will high rpm and lose speed it only happens every now and then and normally wont last long sometimes a mile other times 10 miles
Car showed multiple display messages and speedometer wasn't working. Few days later it appeared fine. (no display probs). Dealership says communication problem and needs new ESP module.
have took out the senser & cleaned still not working correctly
when I take the keys out of the starter the immobolizer light comes on flashing is this normal It turns itself off when I starts the car.
I need your advice on how to solve my problem re: engine vibration when engage to drive mode and when a/c is on at idle. I have replaced all (4) motor mounts,had the throttle body cleaned and poured fuel injector cleaner, regular oil change. Yet, still having this vibration problem. So far, i have no problem when it comes to engine accelaration and power.
This all started when my car hit 106,000 miles; I have noticed that the engine sound becomes louder and the idle is rough with the vibrations. When engine is engage and a/c is ON the rpm is very stable at its required level. This car use to be very quiet and stable.
So, I am not sure what this means. They said it would cost a lot of $$$ to take everything apart to see what the problem is. It sometimes comes on for a couple of days, then goes away. I drive a long distance to work and home and also pick up my daugther. Can anyone help me? I really don't want to pay a lot if it's nothing. My car just hit the 90,000 mark and I would like it to last another 90,000 miles.
I just replaced the battery, now my headlights, electric windows and don't work.
i think its 55 ft lb just need a verification
Dealer changed the Servo Motor in Feb. Now Oct. they are telling me the Evaporator air box assembly needs replacement for $2400+. What is going on?
Believe I actual know the location but is it as difficult to remove as it appears?
I have a 98 Ford Ranger, 5 speed MT. When first started, the engine runs fine, but after the engine heats up a bit, it will peg out. This is really noticeable when at a stop light with the clutch depressed. It will run at max RPM's for a while and then suddenly drop off to nornmal. Once the light turns green though, the trouble returns. The only recourse I have is to put it in 5th gear and almost bog the engine down. I've replaced every vacuum related part, springs and even adjusted the idle to as low as I could get and still maintain the engine running.. I have been told that the Fan clutch is failing and should replace it, but this couldn't be the problem, could it? I have acquired some .45 caliber Jacketed Hollow-points and am thinking of taking her out to pasture. She's been good to me, so I'd like to keep her around a bit longer..
Replaced plugs & wires on all cyls. Now it is setting code po306, po171, p0174. Checked compression on #6 its ok. Engine is still running rough.
Autozone retrieved code for me. Air/fuel sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2. Probable cause open or short circuit condition or poor electrical connection. Will replacing sensor fix the problem? Is this something a do it yourselfer can fix easily? Where is the sensor located exactly? Thanks!
wondering if the engine would be damaged by making this change now on an 03 model.....
Restart solves the problem