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Could it be egr valve just reading about this on other cars. does my Jeep have an egr valve??? The rough idle and gas usage sound similar

I was 99% sure I had a cracked manifold which was causing my 02 sensors to code as bad. Took to a reputable exhaust specialist and says there are no exhaust leaks . But after that took back to shop and engine light was on and code said another sensor was bad..had it replaced this is the 4th sensor that has been replaced mopar only as per repair people. Within 24 hours the engine light came back on and was coding the same sensor that had just been replaced...the jeep still runs rough especially at idle and reverse...still has a diesel sound ..I don't know what to do now don't trust anyone. I have had so many unnecessary repairs done by the dealer and 2 other shops..could this be electrical or fuses or something like you think because I'm female they keep messing with me, keep talking about getting deep in my engine although the engine sounds OK especially at higher speeds seems to run OK. There are no other codes other than 02 sensors...this Jeep has 59,000 miles on it and has been well taken care of have never had an engine light or sensor problem until this past fall.....I really can't afford to just throw it away and thought I would get at least 2 more years out of it. Just put brand new tires on it in Sept. still has nubbies on them Please Help me the dealer here is not trustworthy have heard many people say this..why in the world are the sensors going crazy???

Need a hand-held remote starter for my car

I was driving my truck when it died.Now it turns over, but will not start.Also, it sometimes backfires when attempting to start it.It says it has plenty of gas,but we put some more in it to make sure, and also attempted to get it to start by spraying starting fluid in it, with no success.What would be the most common reasons?Also,we recently changed the spark plugs(about a month ago),so that should not be the problem.

I need to use the lighter for plugging in my chatger and it does not work I s there a master diagram that shows location and what each fuse controls

first when i was going down a hill at a light then when i was backing out of a spot on a hill then again at a small incline hill going forward at a light. what does it mean what shoul i do

everething has been done to the car from new thermostat to bleeding.

This just started, the car was parked in the garage.

I broke the driver side mirro housing while backing out of my garage. It is hanging by the cable. The mirror and back are not broken. The back is white. How do I remove the broken mirror assembly and replace it?

I changed the front struts on my car with some difficulty but I cannot figure out how to get to the rear shock/struts top mounting bolt to change them and they are wore out. Every diagram I have looked at shows my car having springs around the shocks on the rear just like the front but this is not accurate. There are no springs and it looks as if the top mounting bolt is located under the panel between the rear seat and the back glass. Please help me.

Have 99 Yukon 2wd 5.7 135,000 since new and most of time engine will not slow until I apply brakes. Idles correct, no service light or code. Years ago dealership replaced TPS and worked a couple days and returned. This also can happen if I pull say the MAF or other sensor wire, run then reconnect, it may decelerate properly for a day then back again. It comes and goes on its own. In a parking lot, engine will run 1500 or more RPM until I apply brakes then it idles properly. Will decelerate all the time by putting in a lower gear with higher RPMS - like vacuum has some affect. Driving it will take 3 blocks in D3 to slow from 40 MPH to maybe 30. Will decelerate when driving, if I shift to neutral and back to drive. Also has a 3 second lag period from releasing throttle to engine slowing.(maybe normal?)Thinking MAF or MAP?

window tract guides are broken ; neet to get new guides

There's no check engine lights or anything! I just want to make sure it's not going to cause major problems down the road!!

I have rotated tires and when brakes applied still have noise also put in neutral and still noise but when making a left turn at any speed noise goes away and it seems to go away at 60 or above could this be wheel bearing problems missy

I removed the hose adjusted the valve open more and the enginge light went away is this going to be ok for fuel milage and operation