214,769
questions

Car was running fine have had no slipping of the transmission. Parked the car and when we started it later it made a whirring kind of noise and won't shift into any gears.

The brakes will squeal and grab the first few times you stop and than it's good until it sets for awhile. It does it everytime.

the way the motor sets so close to the fire wall . you can't get to the back plugs

rack&pinion has been replaced but there is still slack. what would cause leek in power steering lines after new rack&pinion was replaced after 2 weeks

Driving to work I went over a small speed bump at around 5 mph and heard a pop then nothing but grinding. From what I understand, there was a recall on the 2004 Jeep Liberty Sport for defective ball joints. I was actually trying to find out if they will repair/replace them for free or am I gonna have to foot the bill.

The car has 140,000 miles the belt broke while coasting off an exit

Driving to work 35 minutes into my ride, stopped at a traffic light, light changed, started to drive, and the whole dashboard lit up all lights came on, then all the following went dead, radio, ac, dash gauges, power windows, power door locks, pulled over turned car off, restarted the car, battery light, abs light, then stayed on, all other lights off, but still no electrical power to list above ,please help

My 96' Crown Victoria started acting up a short while ago, suddenly losing charge and shutting down. I knew I was on borrowed time. Earlier this morning the battery light came on, and I lost power steering. As I arrived at my house after nursing it home, I realized my temperature gauge was very nearly maxed, and after turning the car off, I became aware of a sound under my hood. After opening the hood, I realized my coolant was boiling in it's reservoir. Help?

When the check engine light was checked a code number P2610 pops up. what should I do. My mechanic is yet to identify the fault and fix the car

I'm try to fine out y my truck want move in drive or reverse but drive n second gear and low gear.

i noticed while driving

When it is cold, the car continues to crank a second later after you let off the key. It sounds like it starts but stalls out soon as you let off the key.

dtc codes 2097 won't go away when erased. replace both O2 sensor. bank 1 sensor 1 now reports dtc 013 O2 circut fault ?
Still get 2097.
stevenjnance@yahoo.com

My 98 Explorer is doing several things at once: runs from a normal temp to HOT within seconds, overheats immediately, blows wgite smoke from under the hood, check engine light is on (was not in before), "check gauge light stay on when overheating (I hVe only seen this for low fuel), pours out coolant or water, oil gauge flips to low. I topped off the oil and coolant to be safe with no luck. Coolant is sprayed all over engi 0e n once radiator was cooled, filled it with water, ran the truck to identify leak source but it just pours and is hard to tell. When I came to a stop, it stalled. I was able to start it up right away but it sounded like a diesel engine and felt like it wanted to stall again. I have previously had a new radiator installed, new water pump, new connectors, and new battery. What could the problem likely be? Single mom and don't want to be fooled by an untrustworthy mechanic.

I have a 1991 Chevrolet Corsica with a 2.2L 4 Cylinder engine. After driving on the highway (About 45-55 MPH) for an extended period of time (Usually 25+ minutes) my car has an odd habit of dying as soon as i break to a stop. I have tried extending the breaking distance to hopefully allow the transmission more time to drop to a lower gear or something (I really don't know anything about cars)

The problem got worse the other day. After in town driving (Never more then 35 MPH at the VERY most) it did the same thing in the middle of a major traffic lane, thankfully it was late at night and some kind folks came and helped us. I don't know if its an issue but i was running the AC (Or what i think is the AC) for a lot of the day.

We checked the Haynes manual and it said it might have been a problem with the Torque Clutch Converter Solenoid. I would like to know if this car can be fixed for under $70 and WITHOUT the use of ANY special tools (Anything aside from basic socket ratchets, a car jack with 2 stands, some muscle and a torque wrench.) If somebody has an answer, i would be eternally grateful!