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Driving to work I went over a small speed bump at around 5 mph and heard a pop then nothing but grinding. From what I understand, there was a recall on the 2004 Jeep Liberty Sport for defective ball joints. I was actually trying to find out if they will repair/replace them for free or am I gonna have to foot the bill.
The car has 140,000 miles the belt broke while coasting off an exit
Driving to work 35 minutes into my ride, stopped at a traffic light, light changed, started to drive, and the whole dashboard lit up all lights came on, then all the following went dead, radio, ac, dash gauges, power windows, power door locks, pulled over turned car off, restarted the car, battery light, abs light, then stayed on, all other lights off, but still no electrical power to list above ,please help
My 96' Crown Victoria started acting up a short while ago, suddenly losing charge and shutting down. I knew I was on borrowed time. Earlier this morning the battery light came on, and I lost power steering. As I arrived at my house after nursing it home, I realized my temperature gauge was very nearly maxed, and after turning the car off, I became aware of a sound under my hood. After opening the hood, I realized my coolant was boiling in it's reservoir. Help?
When the check engine light was checked a code number P2610 pops up. what should I do. My mechanic is yet to identify the fault and fix the car
I'm try to fine out y my truck want move in drive or reverse but drive n second gear and low gear.
i noticed while driving
When it is cold, the car continues to crank a second later after you let off the key. It sounds like it starts but stalls out soon as you let off the key.
dtc codes 2097 won't go away when erased. replace both O2 sensor. bank 1 sensor 1 now reports dtc 013 O2 circut fault ?
Still get 2097.
My 98 Explorer is doing several things at once: runs from a normal temp to HOT within seconds, overheats immediately, blows wgite smoke from under the hood, check engine light is on (was not in before), "check gauge light stay on when overheating (I hVe only seen this for low fuel), pours out coolant or water, oil gauge flips to low. I topped off the oil and coolant to be safe with no luck. Coolant is sprayed all over engi 0e n once radiator was cooled, filled it with water, ran the truck to identify leak source but it just pours and is hard to tell. When I came to a stop, it stalled. I was able to start it up right away but it sounded like a diesel engine and felt like it wanted to stall again. I have previously had a new radiator installed, new water pump, new connectors, and new battery. What could the problem likely be? Single mom and don't want to be fooled by an untrustworthy mechanic.
I have a 1991 Chevrolet Corsica with a 2.2L 4 Cylinder engine. After driving on the highway (About 45-55 MPH) for an extended period of time (Usually 25+ minutes) my car has an odd habit of dying as soon as i break to a stop. I have tried extending the breaking distance to hopefully allow the transmission more time to drop to a lower gear or something (I really don't know anything about cars)
The problem got worse the other day. After in town driving (Never more then 35 MPH at the VERY most) it did the same thing in the middle of a major traffic lane, thankfully it was late at night and some kind folks came and helped us. I don't know if its an issue but i was running the AC (Or what i think is the AC) for a lot of the day.
We checked the Haynes manual and it said it might have been a problem with the Torque Clutch Converter Solenoid. I would like to know if this car can be fixed for under $70 and WITHOUT the use of ANY special tools (Anything aside from basic socket ratchets, a car jack with 2 stands, some muscle and a torque wrench.) If somebody has an answer, i would be eternally grateful!
the air conditioning is blowing through the defroster and the check engine light, charging light and the oil light ll are blinking? What is wrong with this car? Has been woring fine until tonight,although the ac has been hesitating to start the last couple of days.
the light was of a wrench
picture. and ion the book it said something about" throtal body and i was in a limp home mode. and to see the dealer. first time ever. 51,000 miles. Started fine later in the day and drove just fine, what is wrong???
I have to charge my battery every morning for about half an hour just so my car starts. Once i turn my car off and wait for a couple hours, it won't turn back on due to my battery being dead. If i charge my battery for longer than 30 minutes, ex; 4-5 hours, i'm able to turn my car on after a couple hours compared to not being able to when charging it half an hour.
Light gets brighter during acceleration. Voltage on battery while running is 14.2 volts, even with all accesories on, so assume regulator is working.Belt tension seems ok, no loose connections, battery cables good. Last few days, gauges will drop out, at night cluster lights go out, engine will hesitate slightly day or night. This alternator was new NAPA brand and took 2 days for me to install, could it have a bad diode? I don't trust the auto store checks because last year it recorded no problems with altenator even when regulator was bad and voltage would drop with each accessory turned on. I have read quite a few threads on this and everyone had a different answer. NAPA part has lifetime warranty, but dread the change again.