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As i said above i believe my egr valve is clogged up so i need to find it and blow it out, and i also need help with a little power problem. My car sat for two years infront of my house, and wasn't really ran. when i received it the car ran with no problem at all, aside from the windows being off track because it was in an accident previously. Well now the battery is drained everytime i go to get in the car. i have to charge it everyday that i don't drive it, and when i do drive it it's to see if there are any other problems i can find. we believe that the battery problem will hopefully subside once i get the car running good and drive it everyday. what could be causing this?
sometimes it does nothing when trying to start. my programmer says not in run position when this happens. is it possibly the ignition switch and how hard is it to change out? i sprayed some dry lube in the keyhole and it seemed to help but tommorrow it may do it again.
When this happenens it is not registering as in the run position. none of the gauges register when this occurs.
I have changed fluid & filter.changed vss sensor,even ran w/overdrive off didn't help. seems fine at highway speed,only does it at rpm range when it should shift!
Car has been doing this for a while. May take 2 or 3 starts to get going. Then it is fine while driving and can be fine the next couple of times I try starting it.
I have never heard of this before in 52 years of owning automobiles including Cadillacs, etc?
The car has 48,000 miles.
thursday night ran fine, friday night wouldn't start. saw arching from coil wire, saturday moring changed all the wire one at a time like i was told, now it dump fuel in to the intake like u were pouring it in. wat shpuld i try?
when I turn my steering wheel when I'm driving slowly, parking, I get a knock when I turn to the right or left. I had it looked at and was told nothing was loose, but something sounds loose. I don't want a wheel to fall off...
I bought this truck at 159,000 miles a few months ago and am right at 161,000. I only use to pull a 5000 lb. travel trailer.
Do I access it through the trunk or how do I get the brake lamp cover off to change the light?
This is on a 1989 Plymouth Reliant...
Speedometer on dash does not work, check engine light is on, abs brake light is on , cruise control does not work.
It is located behind engine in front of transmission
I've replaced each of my low beam headlights twice in under 60K and the dealer has told me that type of bulb can't take a lot of bumps...come on?
My boyfriend turned off his car today and as soon as he took the keys out of the ignition and opened the car door, his headlights started flashing off and on. They eventually time out and go off. It just randomly started happening today. The battery is brand new, so he has been unpluging the battery everytime we leave it for long. Could it be a relay switch? I think is has something to do with his car alarm, because thats what his alarm does when it goes off the only difference is, the car isn't making the beeping noise it normally would if the alarm was going off.
I have a 2005 Mercury Montego with CVT built after 10/17/2005 and 59,000+ miles. Without any previous warning signs, an hour ago I was on my way home and the check engine light, the throttle control/transmission lamp (little double ended wrench), and the LED "Check Engine" and "Check Transmission" warnings all came on. It was less than three blocks to my drive and since I wasn't sure what was happening I drove home. I noticed it was handling "sluggish" and when I placed it into Drive it kind of went into it hard. Not necessarily a "clunk" going into gear, but a harsh sound all the same. Please tell me this isn't something wicked bad and expensive that is happening. Any suggestions?