No heat/air at all on any speeds. Have gotten under the dash but have come to the airbag. No help on internet for this year of car and the replacement of the resistor. Thank you.

could it be dust in the drums or brake pads

I have a accord 92 ex 5sp. It is having intermittent starting problem. When I
put the key in ON position (just before start), I hear continuous "clicking"
noise around the IACV/EACV (idle air control valve). The IACV has the
original Denso electronics. When I disconnect the electric connection to it,
the noise stops. TI measured the voltage at the wire of the connector (not at
the IACV), it has about 8V instead of 12V. When I don't get the noise, the
car starts but when i hear the clicking noise, it doesn't start. I replaced
the distributor recently and also the mail relay few months back.
Anybody had this issue and how to resolve it? Thanks.

Not sure if the recommended service is absolutely necessary. I always hear that people run their toyotas for 200000 miles plus without ever touching the engine.

My car's 4 speed (P-R-N-D-3-2-1)automatic transmission is not working properly it's slipping for R speed and making noisy jerks for any forward speed while shifting. Mileage is about 110,000. I am too much worried what to do next. A nearby mechanic says that it's some electronical fault and can be reset by vida-dice, while anotherone says that it should be opened and fully serviced. Can anybody help me with the right guidence, what I should do now. Is there any alternative transmission from any other car which can be fitted in my volvo model. Thanking in advance. (should I buy Volvo Vida-Dice from online e-bay? Would it be helpfull for me?)

What repairs should I expect in the next 25-30000 miles?

owned our 2002 since new, about a year ago , no radio reception, no AM and only local strong FM. Tried aftermarket with barely better results. The antenae system seems very complicated, any advise ? thanks

My 2002 BMW 325i just reached the 100k miles, so I would like to know if or when do I need to have the timing belt changed, how much will it cost and how long will it take to do it? Thank you.

if i manage to keep it running then it surges really bad. doesn't seem to do it in reverse.

usually has to sit over night. Engine runs smooth. I let it sit for a month while out of town. Started it and it ran for about 20 minutes. Turned it off then started right up, but died after 3 minutes as before. Next day it did the same thing. Is there something that would cause this ater engine warms up ? Any ideas?

Had the battery and alternator individually tested and replaced at the same time about a month ago. Car has been fine since then, but last night the battery was dead. After getting a jump, all the dash lights seemed dim, the windows were slow to roll up and down, headlights were dim, and the heater fan was barely going when set on four. Tried to start it after driving all the way home, and got nothing at all.

This problem generaly occurs when going up a hill it feels like the motor isn't idling fast enough.

comparable with the same amount of precious metals will suffice versus not buying the whole assembly? there is no codes but pending 0420 catalyst below threshold bank 1 o2s are bouncing well what you guys think i am not trying to be cheap just efficent

I'd like to see diagram on where i connect the vacum hoses on htr cntrl valve

I have a 2000 Windstar 3.8l I did the 171&174 fix about 3 months ago.Ran great for 2 months.About amonth ago started running rough at idle and on the highway.No check engine light on,no codes pending.Changed spark plugs,wires,coil,dfep,tps,iac,maf,gass filter,checked all vacum lines,gass pressure,fuel injectors.Did the 171&174 fix over.Checked all fuses.Does not matter if its cold,hot raining or clear outside.Can anybody guide to what to check.