Is this going to be an epic adventure? Or is it as easy as it looks? one is worn and the other isnt and do i need to remove the entire tie rod to do this?

It is Fully Charged, The low Pressure Switch has been replaced. but it still turns on and off on its own. The fan does not tirn off it is only the compressure.

The wheel hub is damaged (bended) and needs to be replaced

it is only when i am idling at a stop, i have recently cleaned the mass air flow sensor and consistently run mid grade fuel as i was having problems with it running to lean. just recently ran risolone fuel system cleaner/lubricator through but normally use another brand. codes p0300 and p303 pop up when the diagnostic was ran.

The shudder/vibration doesn't seem to occur when making a hard right turn, and a wide u-turn seems okay, as well. The groaning noise was metallic in nature. Otherwise, the car drives straight & doesn't pull to left our right while street or freeway driving, nor during braking. Driver's side axle was recently replaced due to torn CV boot.

When my car was in the shop to have the cat replaced they recommended the rear seal be replaced.

Drivers door electric lock door lock will not work at all and the drivers door ajar light comes on quite often. Door lock doesn't work in either condition. One sliding door colese and opens back up right away and the other doesn't open unless you pry the back with your fingers.

i have replaced all 4 o2 sensers, all spark plugs, coils, catalytic converter, and a few fuel injectors . after all most 2 grand im still having the same problem. no check engine light is on. van runs fery rough while idleing and has no power when driving. has 84000 miles on it. please help

I'm trying figure out why my A/C is not working correctly. It works on normal while driving, but not setting still. The compressor cluth does not engauge.

conditioner was not working so well...I had the freon checked...and the fellow added some..but told me he thought the door controlling the air flow on the drivers side was stuck shut. I get air flow through the vents on drivers side...but no cool air. I suppose I need to investigate under the dash and see what i can free up. Any suggestions for what I should be looking at/for ?

This has been going on for 3 weeks now.Some days the lights go off for a day and then right back on.The lights 90% of the time are flashing.Two auto shops have checked for codes but nothing shows up?I am considering removing the sensors one at a time and will try and clean them.

When I first turn on the key on my 1994 Mazda B2300 I have no power. The charge slowly builds to virtually full in about 30 seconds. Once running the voltage meter bounces considerably, but the truck runs without any problems( Until I shut it of and all power is lost immediately.) Do you know where I should start in checking things out?

checked the fuse and it was fine. Is there another fuse or something simple I can check under the hood?

told to replace transmission, noise goes away in 4th gear

I started my car and went to put it into gear and the gear shift moves but it isnt catching and going into gear. It just slides up and down. Its an automatic transmission. How to I fix this problem?