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my 94 ford taurus (3.0 with a V6) appears to be overheating according to the temp gauge. The car itself doesnt really seem to be exhibiting symptoms. no boiling over, no smoke, the car doesnt try to die or run rough. Its been doing this for three days and today the gauge started moving more instead of just staying in the red. I have had my vent on in the car and the temperature always seemed on par with the outside temp until I today and it was blowing hot. It still doesnt appear to be boiling over and its not really driving differently, but today after it had been off for about an hour, I noticed some hissing coming from the engine that was silenced when the radiator cap was loosened. I have no idea what is wrong and have heard anywhere from a sensor is out to I need a new radiator. Im at a loss. :(
how do u test a neutral safety switch and if its bad how do i change it
Does anyone know what ac compressors work with this model, I need one bad and can't seem to find one I can afford.
i loosened the bleeder but it didnt move at all even when i put a c clamp on it
how do I reset the immobilizer when it is engaged it shuts the engine off and car will not move. Vehicle was working fine before, problem occurred suddenly
Checked balljoints,tierods,bushings,swaybarr,A-arms,struts seem fine. nothing loose everything solid. Im mechanicaly inclined and out of ideas. I heard strut bearings but it dont squeek its a metal on metal sound.
Service engine light has been on for years, never any problems. Had tuneup 16 months ago. Light began blinking while going down the highway (above 65mph) then it stopped blinking then about 20 minutes later did it again. Wasn't driving rough, noticed no changes. Light does not blink when driving around town (don't do alot of highway driving) only blinks once in awhile while driving highway speeds. Took it to autozone and above codes came up - all them codes have been there before except the P0300 is new (from last time they checked a year ago). Took codes to shop & they said the codes aren't related but after reading stuff online it seems that the P0300 may be related to the other codes via a problem with the fuel system. I have had the fuel system replaced 2x since I owned this vehicle - once in 2003 and again in 2006. What is the deal and what kind of costs am I looking at? Also replaced the fuel filter after the tune up was done.
THE AUTO SHOP TOLD ME THE BEARING IN THE REAR DRIVE SHAFT WENT OUT AND NEEDS REPLACED. HOW MUCH SHOULD THAT COST FOR PARTS AND LABOR. I AM IN NEBRASKA AND DO NOT KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT AUTO REPAIR.
How much should it cost . Can I do it myself
we looked by the strut tower, under battery, and the relay coil. it is no where to be found. can you help?
The sound only occurs in drive, nothing in park, or reverse, reving or at idle. I was told at a GM dealership that a bearing was going out in the trans. and they could replace it with a rebuilt for $3,500. I don't think that putting that much in a eight year old view is worth it.
Could this be caused by anything else?
The car had been parked and not starting when I bought it. I was told that the anti theft system had to be disengaged. Is this possible? there is no spark.
Ok i got an answer on it this am and it wasn't doing it this morning or all day....now that I wentto the store I noticed the tempature rose to almost half way and it started to smoke real good and i pulled up in driveway and got out to smell it and it smelt sweet. So I gather it's coolant. How did this happen? and how do I fix the problem? Is it real serious?
what do you think is wrong iwth the car
it has several codes.300,302,303. it ldels rough and lacks power. I have repalced all injectors,all coil packs,all sparkplugs,air filter.its a 2000, 2.4l standard trany.I cleaned the mass air flow senser last night. althow each time i replaced a componit it ran better. it still has the codes pop up after 20 to fifty miles of driving. what do you think?