changing the spark plugs and installing a new gasket

its it doesn't try to turn over its like its of but if you wait 5 to 10 mins or come back in an hour the car starts right up, and runs great wwhat is it?

Only codes being sent out are for Bank 2 oxygen sensor 1, and misfire cylinder 5. After erasing the codes, and reving the engine abit, the Bank2 oxy.sensor code came back. Will only travel in reverse very weakly on a level grade.

Cooling fan motor went out. Car was getting hot. But blowing cold. All of a sudden before replacing fan, started blowing hot. Replaced fan, still blowing hot. Almost like heater is on. Checked coolant, freon everthing else ok.

My cars motor has started clanging its not really bad except for when Im pulling a hill. I was told that it may stop if I got them adjusted and wanted to know if that will work. Someone esle told me that I may need a new head, if so how much would either of those repairs cost me?

my ac only blows hot air. It is full of freeon (ever how you spell that). Is there a easy fix that I can DIY?

While I drive my A/C changes from vents to floor/defrost. Sometimes it will go back. other times it will not and i have to turn it off and turn it back on. but once the car goes under a load from going up a hill it will do it again.

it turns over have changed crank sensor have checked timing marks and it has spark

bump/seems to be getting louder

I have changed the fuel filter already.

reverse is not ingageing need to change the shifter guide

if so where can i fill it up

Took my car in for a fuel line recall & noise problem around the serpentine belt area. Dealer did a sound diagnostic test & said that the tensioner pulley located underneath alternantor was going bad and that both idler pulleys and another tensioner pulley where also going bad. Had both upper & lower idler pulleys replaced & tensioner pulleys replaced by a VW Dealer. Still getting that whizzzing noise somewhere near the AC or Alternator. Any suggestions of what might be causing the noise? Please help.

still has noticable leak that rests in the frame well where the radiator sits, there are small wells and the coolent is there. Had a mechanic put on the pressure "thing" it showed no loss, but I don't know how long he had it on, or how long it HAS to be on before it reveals a loss of pressure. The radiator was replaced two years ago, spark plugs, wires, all hoses connected with the radiator, BUT DID not REPLACE the water pump OR the thermostat. How effective would be having a diagnostic dye put in? IF it is the water pump, OR the thermostat, would the diagnostic dye reveal THAT? I am having a cow