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just bought this car 2 days ago...running beautifly...I start to climb a gradual incline towards the mountains where i live...the temp gage starts to move a little right of center(and typically at least for the past 24 hours..it stays in the middle of the gage)and this is the second time i have driven up this road...the first time no changes in the temp gage...anyway it starts moving closer to the red zone and pegs itself in a matter of about 25 seconds..i pull over nad car shuts off..I look under hood and see bottom radiator hose spewing antifreeze... i replace hose..refil radiator.car wont start..i was told hat maybe the spark blugs had gotton wet..so i removed and replaced with new plugs...car starts after a few tries...very ruff idol..alot of white smoke coming from exhoust...car starts to drop idol..then dies after about 2 min.. i check oil stick..milky color???
Approx. 1qt every 500 miles.
hi i have a 2004 bmw 530 i with 71000 miles on it the problem i have is that when i am driving my car the car drives normal but when i go an the highway i fell my trans slip in 5th to 6th gear i went to the bmw dealer they put the car an computer and told me that my transmission is gone i mean car drives fine and everything i took it to the highway the other day and i still have that slip so can you tell mi your opinion because i can't believe that bmw with 71 000 miles on it can have a bad trans why do you think could it be a solenoid
It goes into gear but the speedometer will not register till the car warms up usually about 15 to 20 minutes, seems like you are in nuetral. Before it was just doing it once, now it slips back and forth when it comes to a stop. I have talked to a couple of mechanics and they say it may be a moderlator, or the transmission needs to be replace.
I have a 2006 1500 Silverado w/ 189000 miles. Since about 150k I have had very low oil pressure on start up. Low Oil Pressure alert going off. Once I drive for about 20 min and get everything warmed up my oil pressure holds normal with no drop at all. This is only an idle oil pressure problem. If I take off and drive it holds at about 40 lbs....but when I stop and idle it goes back down. Or I can just idle at a higher rpm and it holds.
I did use vmax 10/30 and just switched to penzoil high mileage. It seems to not be near as bad with the new oil. It is 10/30 as well.
It does not matter if it is summer or winter when doing this, it just does not take near as long in the summer time to stop setting off the Low Oil Pressure alert.
One other thing, If I am sitting on an incline it does it worse. If the truck is declined it does not do it as bad. And this is when oil levels are prefect, so I know its not a low oil situation.
To give a terse history, I bought mine for 400 bucks, from a 17 year old farm boy who drove this thing into the dirt. For some reason or another, earlier this year, I took care of one problem, where it sounded like a rod knocking. Turned out that when the kid worked on the transmission, he didn't torque the bolts at all. So I took care of that best I could and got the bell housing bolts in tight and it no longer makes that noise.
To add, my starter bolt for some reason is going loose, and it so cramped to get to it, cleaning it to have loctite work to keep it in has been impossible for me. So every few days to a couple weeks, I tighten it up. Funny thing is, my 14mm socket keeps getting stuck on it. Is it a 9/16th bolt? Is that why the metric socket is getting stuck?
Since then, I've been able to fix most everything, but since I am only self-taught, I can't for the life of me figure this new problem out.
Just awhile ago, when you start the truck up cold, it makes this rotating chatter noise. While in park, or driving at slow speeds, it chatters away. While driving, it goes away, although sometimes you hear a low squeal and grinding noise for a second, then it goes away.
Last weekend I noticed my U joint was a touch loose. Not sure what the tolerance is, but I've let that go since then (I'm broke now), but I checked it as I was replacing my CV axle and bushings on my brakes.
I checked everywhere with my stethoscope, and the engine is running like a watch (well I need to fix the timing a bit), the transmission shifts fine, but one thing I did notice was this.
Turn the wheel to the left, in idle, in park, no problem. Turn the wheel to the right, in idle, in park, and the chatter goes faster.
From my experience, I am only coming up with 3 things. Bad U joint, bad bearing (which bearing I am not sure) or the power steering (but the reservoir is full and doesn't leak). I just know that while in drive, sometimes turning right is a chore. You have to sometimes man handle the steering wheel at low speeds to turn right. Turning left is fine.
If you can help me through this, you will be my personal hero(s).
When the engine is cold and I start driving then slow down between 3rd and 2nd gear my car seems to hiccup and then slow down. It only does it until my car gets warm then seems to go away. I just want to make sure it is not harming my transmission or brakes. When I switch my car to auto-manual and hand downshift it myself it does not seem to do it. I cannot tell if it is my brakes or my transmission downshifting rough. This just started when the weather got colder.
cold air comming out when heat is on
when my 1995 cadillac deville is in park and i give it gas it bogs out. why?
Last week i hit a big pothole,on the front pasenger side, and since that they the Airbag light stay on. We use the machine to reset it, but it doen't reset it. 05 Airbag. what that mean, and where is it so i can replace it.
want to convert my 2.7L sebring to a 2.4 or 3.0. Need to know if any changes are required with electronics ie; wiring harness/computer/sensors.
Where is the fuel pump and how do I remove it
all other gauges work
what kind of factory pads came on the vehicle
is it an expensive fix?