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I have no noticeable oil leaks, there's never any oil spots under my vehicle on the garage floor. I do find very black splatter behind my vehicle after idling for a time though. I'm going through about a quart of oil every two tanks of fuel, so about 700 miles or so. Gas mileage is good, sometimes great. Is this likely that the piston rings are not sealing well anymore? I have over 300k miles on the vehicle but still in very good condition for that many miles. Have never had a valve adjustment as I have been told that may cause poorer seating rather than better at this point, but I wonder if that could be causing leakage. My spark plugs look like they are burning clean, though a couple looked overly black after 100k miles.
Beetle. What's the cost if the motor must be replaced?
can/t tell what gear its in truck has 13.000 miles
I’m just finishing a head gasket job on a 95 Beretta 2.2L and am having difficulty re-attaching the throttle valve cable. I can get it attached, but only with the throttle wide open and it won’t close once the cable is attached.
The throttle cable itself attaches fine and appears to work appropriately. Bracket is not bent. I’m sure of the cable locations as they have unique connectors to the bracket as well as unique sizes of ends for attaching to the pulleys on the throttle assembly. Where could I have gone wrong and what can I do to correct this?
Ive heard of a horsepower upgrade by replacing the brain or jetting is there anything available for my truck?
When it rains and is cold outside it turns over but will not start. I've changed the ECM,temperature sensor, distributor cap/rotor. crank sensor, wires, and spark plugs. the codes that are showing now are P1345 and P1351.
When I tried to start to warm up in the morning it wont start. All the lights work and it sounds like it wants to start almost like you turned the key to far and held it there. I put a code reader on it says code 2070 possible intake manifold tuning valve stuck open. Could this be right and that is why its not starting. When I look online most people say there check engine light is on and it still runs. My engine light didnt come on before this happened. Also I cannot find and DIY diagrams or manuals to try to help fix with out paying dealer. No warrenttee no $$
I have a vat key that broke off in the ignitiomn
One day the car would not start, a mechanic told me that it gave him the code for a bad computer module.
also I'm stuck H4 and I can't get back to N without the lights on the tires turning on.
2002 Passat GLS 1.8T Sedan - $61k miles
Reason for Check Engine Light (#1, 2, 3)
#1 Diagnostic Procedure 5052 - Bank 1, Sensor #2 internal resistance too high
- Replace O2 Sensor #2 =$199 parts + $200 labor = $400 plus tax
#2 System too lean - all vacuum hoses are broke $24 parts + $200 Labor = $224 + Tax
#3 Also Misfire in cylinder #3 and #4 - spark plugs are wasted $18x4= $72 parts + $100 Labor = $172 + Tax
#4 Coolant bottle is completely dirty, needs a new bottle and a flush - $290
#5 40k Tune Up = $750 (which is odd because I'm at $61k)
I have intalled a new brake switch. this happens whether the headlights are on auto or manuel. the auto fuction is always on and can not be turned off,if you switch it off it just reactivates when you turn the switch on.
I ALREADY RELACED THE SILENOID,ONE DAY LATER THE ENGINE LIGHT WENT BACK ON...
now what? The back shocks are being replaced next, could that have anything to do with the noise, appears it is coming from under front fender well. I have nothing to jack up the car to look for myself.