Blower wont turn off regsardless of control setting. I find two fuses for this system; 1 for the blower relay; the other for the blower. Is there any harm in pulling one or both fuses to stop the blower?

parts house can't find it. repair manual calls it map sensor solenoid valve

I have a P0420 code and engine light on. I am also going through a quart of oil every 1500 miles. No leaks underneath, no smoke coming out the tail pipe. The vehicle has 104,000 miles. My shop checked it and identified the catalytic converter needs to be replaced along with the O2 sensors. When they opened it up they called and said they didn't recommend repairing this as there was so much oil inside the converter that the new one would plug up rapidly and I'd being throwing money into another one very soon. They feel there is something going on internally causing the oil to move through the system the way it is and it could be costly to isolate this. They didn't want my to spend more on finding the cause than it might be worth. Any thoughts on this or similar experiences? PCV valve? old plugs? gaskets? I would love to keep the van but can't afford to sink too much into an unknown problem.

the radio worked fine up until when i went to drive it today now i cant get the tape out and the radio doesnt turn on either

How do I remove the top bolt on the starter, the bottom is a 14mm bolt, is the top one the same size or is it a 10-12mm bolt. It looks smaller when looking at it witha mirror?

problem started with car after a major head gasget blow replaced it but extreamly noisy in motor timeing showing about 21 advanced

what else do I need to remove besides the balancer. Do you have a film or photo

engine light came on went to dealer and they diagnosis'd a gas tank pressure sensor as issue. The engine light has gone on and off with various fill ups but is now on all the time. Was hoping to save some money. But if it is a necessary for the pros to repair, I understand. Looking for advice

brake line whistling at fire wall on driver's side

have replace the following parts already, serp-belt, belt tensioner assy, idler pully, and alternator and it still makes alot of squeaking noise when on higher rpm, more so when the AC is on. what could be a possible problem?

Hi my 1996 Mazda minivan is LEAKING something under the dashboard through the flooring and steam is coming inside and smell bad that make me sick. Please advice, Ray.

I was wondering if their is some kind of sensor switch or sending unit for the e-brake, that turns the dash light on,when the e-brake is engaged and where it is located? Occasionally, after engaging my e-brake the dash light won't come on? If their is indeed some kind of sensor that turns the dash light on when the e-brake is engaged I think it may be faulty, because I know that the indicator light does in fact work. Any help you could give would be greatly appreciated.

going broke trying to find no start cause. new key switch brought this comp board into my hands. truck started and ran fine then several seconds then it shut off like I had turned it off. Has not started since. good fuel, coil, wires, plugs. but the coil sends out two sparks and stops.cleaned every connection I can think of.no codes on scanner.how can I test this anti theft thing, or bypass altogether.

not too run

I have filled the reservoir to full, and there is no fluid coming out. I do not hear the noise that comes with pressing the washer switch so I think I might need a new pump. Should I replace the pump and the hoses or just the pump?