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My fusion has shifted fine since i bought it until about a month ago, now sometimes it wont fully go into reverse. i can let it roll back a bit with the clutch in and then it will go in, or play around with the shifter and eventually it will go into gear. It doesnt matter if the car is running or not. It will work fine for days then one day it won't want to go into reverse. i took it in to ford and they said that there was nothing wrong with it and that it was probably the way I was moving the shifter into reverse. they "showed" me the "proper" way to move it into reverse and told me that the slightest movement upward would make the car think it was in 5th so then it wouldn't go into reverse. I am not happy with this diagnosis and i am wondering if anyone else has had this issue with their fusion and if so what the problem was or if it is actually just me? ford said the new ones do it too but wouldn't show me. Thanks
After a mechanic tune up my 2000 Cadillac STS,it idles like it hasn't been tune up. He said he changed the plugs,the spark plug boot,fuel filter,changed the pcv valve,used a fuel inject cleaning kit and a kit that would help in cleaning the valves.
The check engine light came on prior to the tune up. He did a diagnosis and said the there was a 'misfire' on cylinder 4 and 2. He said the tune up would take car of the rough idling,but it hasn't.
The car runs without hesitation when you step on the gas and runs great without any signs of misfire at low speeds and high speeds.
I am taking the car back to the mechanic and asking him why the rough idling after a tune up. I need to know a little more about what might be causing it to idle rough.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
We had the "MAX" button on our A/C panel break off. I went to the dealer to get the replacement cap and was told I needed to purchase a whole new face plate. The parts guy had one of the BMW Techs come out to let me know what needed to be done. He indicated that we could break the button out of the new plate and replace just the MAX cap; however that could be difficult as they break easily. He suggested that we pop of the old face plate and replace it with the new one. Which is what we did? What a hassle. We did not realize that the little clips would come loose that create the resistance on the buttons. Finally got everything back together and have temp reading and lights on the panel; however I cannot change off of "AUTO" even though all the clips seem to be in place. Is there a trick to resetting the computer? Have already disconnected the battery to get the panel to light up. Your help is appreciated.
so i had my spark plugs replaced new oil gasket and am still having the same problem with it but it only does it when am stopped at a light or stop sign. Then it goes dead but cranks back up.I even replaced front motor mount but need the other 3 for the shaking i suppose.
I am able to remove the door panel but am not sure how to get the new handle into the door.
Vehicle only starts with throttle up. No idle. Only DTC is P1599 CC power management engine stall. Good resistance on serial data cable, engine grounds seem stable, no visible heat damage to harness.
parked car and went into store. after coming out of store saw coolant running underneath the car but could not see where it came from. since then have been loosing coolant and car will begin to overheat. chrysler dealer had it two weeks but could not find the leak. another mechanic also looked at it and found no leak. exhaust doesn't smoke and cannot smell or taste antifreeze at tailpipe. leakdown and dye tests have been done to no avail. left cooling fan has quit since overheating began but it was working fine when it first began overheating. no one seems to think it is a head gasket or cracked head but i am wondering if it is the water pump. can only drive about 3 miles in traffic before it begins to overheat. since the experts can't find where coolant is going how do i troubleshoot this.
The ac and heater work at the same time in my car how do i fix it?
It always happens first thing in the morning, but sometimes in the afternoon also. The idle goes up and back down to almost dying to back up to 1500rpm and back down. When I put it in gear, no problem at all. It will idle just fine in gear with foot on brake and drive off without fail.
found battery to be bad had tested replaced /when it stalls out .it cranks wont start up auto shutoff relay,starts shatering ,when it cools down will start up again,seems to be a therma prob ,replaced cpu a couple years ago,seems to have same problem .live in phoenix ,can i test computer module with mutimeter/any ideas
The idle is too slow need to set it up some.
My security light is tuck on the on position and the car will not start. It goes to start but its almost like the fuel isn't getting to the engine. I read in the manual that the security light being on could stop it from doing that.
When i am at a dead stop with my AC on my truck wants to die, I have to keep my foot on the pedal in order to keep it from dying. When I turn the AC off and am at a dead stop I have no issues with it wanting to die. Please advise on what could be the problem.
Because of high altitude it is only a 4 cylinder
Engine makes strange rapid squeeking noise (not very loud) when under light stress (AC running) at low RPMs or at idle... Every time I take it to the dealer, the sound goes away. Any advise?