218,773
questions

The plasic expansion tank was leaking coolant into the pan

We have a 2002 Elantra. Last summer the radiator failed, but we stopped before overheating the engine. Since then, there is valve lifter noise when starting that goes away after about 10 seconds. We also hear the valve lifters when revving the engine, but at steady rpm they're quiet. I suspect one or more bad lifters. I can't seem to get an estimate to replace them. I suspect it will require removing the camshaft(s). I already have an estimate for doing the timing belt and waterpump, so this would simply be an add-on to that estimate.

I cannot open my driver side door unless I roll the window down and open it from the outside handle. I've dealt with this for several months but fear going into winter now. If my window is frozen that means I'm stuck in the van! Any advise on repair? I can't find anything online. Thanks

Some fluid on garage floor after being parked 3 days. Car just driven from Phoenix to Denver. No visiable leaks. Reverse worked after cool down. Car now parked waiting for service appointment.

uuuhhhh,how long does the dealer charge

IT WILL WORK THEN STOP FREQUENTLY

If the problem is a fuse i need a more detailed diagram. neither the panel under the hood nor on the drivers side show anything about interior lights dome lights or map lights also sais nothing about ctsy lights. The owners manual doesnt have a diagram and i cant find one online...

reverse lights do not work, bulbs aand fuses are fine

car crank over good every things working only no power to fuel injector what can i check that give power to the injector

fuel pump is good starter ,battery car crank over but no power to injector

The dashboard lamp behind the heat-a/c control needs replacement

the ac dsnt wrk at all the heater gets extremly hot and stays hot all summer then as soon as it starts to get cold its more useable then when it gets 30 and below it dsnt wnt to heat or blow and alot a times it takes me to get on the highway for it to wrk in the winter then that dsnt always do it what could this be and how much?????

this was not done when upper and lower front ball joints were replaced.

when i start my car up it will run fine until it drops below the 1000 rpm mark and it will start to shake. Once I put it in drive, or reverse, it seems to sputter and jerk, even sometimes stalling. It will fire right back up but it will continue to buck. What's going on here? Fuel injectors, plugs, any quick fix ideas?

Got 2006 Kia Sedona inspected on Friday, hit with a bill for $745 to replace right front wheel bearing and a new batter because of problem with frequent non-start of van. Saturday morning, started van, backing out of driveway and ABS and ESC OFF lights come on and there is vibration and pulsating in brake upon pressing of brake pedal. Van back at mechanic on Monday in which they claim that right front wheel speed sensor was going bad, which was caused by old wheel bearing that went bad, causing the axle to be loose and rattle around causing the speed sensor to start to go bad, but would not have known it until the replacement of the wheel bearing made the right front tight causing the speed sensor to get readings kicking the ABS light on. Cost to replace this is $138. Get van home and immediately upon restarting, Check Engine Light comes on. So now what? Can anyone shed some light on this BS?