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I am going to repair the fan on the passat 2.8 V6 myself. I just want to confirm that the radiator fan is electric (it looks like it is)?
Any particular things I should know or is it straight forward?
I have been told that it is not necessary to remove the radiator but, other than that, I don't know where to start. Can someone please give me step by step instruction on this procedure? I have the new one ready for installation. Thank you.
My car was running fine but the window motor was broken or so I thought. I got a rental before they figured out I left the lock button on, so to make it worth my while since I had already rented a car I did the "60K level service" based on their rec, along with a rear break adjustment (even though I had the front breaks done 2 weeks previous and you think they would have adjusted them then!)...done at 85K miles by the shop less than a month ago. It other words after that my car was in tip top shape. I asked them about trading it in and they said, no with the work you just did it's going to run forever.
But...I swear they didn't check the fluids. The AC stopped working, then fluid light and engine light came on. It was at night and I saw no coolant in the over-fill compartment and no fluid in the wiper compartment so I added water there and kept checking it along with oil levels. I barely drove this (1-2x a week) and was out of town a week where it sat in an underground garage. I was going to drive it by the shop to have them check on why the AC was having issues as well as the lights (fluid and engine) coming on when my engine cut out on the freeway, and it being 103 degrees outside.... A burning smell and flopping of a fan noise and I pulled over. I had it towed to the shop and they said oh, "we didn't check the front (meaning radiator and wiper fluid)" they were apologetic and willing to pay for a rental. However, now that the damage is beyond coolant they are blaming this on a faulty after market radiator. But it seems to me a seam busted on the bottom of the radiator is more likely caused by high electrolysis explosion from the busted gasket head which was also caused by old/no fluids that obviously weren't filled. Now they say they were filled and are quoting me $1300 at a minimum range where friends have said the $750 range would be the most to look out for. Anyway it seems to me they are at least partially responsible and partially ripping me off and now trying to scoot responsibility. Plus it seems impossible for it to go through enough coolant in less than 3 weeks to make the fluid light go on and if the radiator had busted at the seam that caused the lack of fluids my car would have quit functioning a lot sooner and I would have heard something since they call it a sudden bust senario.
So what's a reasonable price for all this since want to machining the heads "just to be sure" and said they are "only charging me $300-400 in labor." Radiator, hoses and gasket heads... The place is family run and the tech guy is a retired Toyota guy but the owner er quoter hasn't performed this type of work. And are they responsible or not?
on the drive shaft
Did you every find out what the problem was I have the exact same problem and there telling me it is my strut.
Ck Engine light lit again now (6 wks later)Took to dealer-they put on their diag computer (even though I showed them the results of the one from Tires Plus- Dealer says its the evp sys vent charcoal canister-Cost to replace: $619.53-says the valves themselves are ok-but the charcoal canister just needs replacing. Says if I "top off" when filling up with gas, it causes overflow into the canister and ruins it. Does any of this seem reasonable to you experts? I bought the car new and have never had this prob before-p.s.133K gentle miles.The dealer didn't reset the ck engine light so its still on. Now if anything else goes wrong,I won't know cause the light is already on. Help!
.brake light display comes on,also brake linings, fog light.everything has been reparied, but still displayed on panel.
I'm changing out a timing belt but I can't seem to see what is keeping me from removing the washer from behind the harmonic balancer. It looks like a metal bracket but I don't see any bolts to remove in order to get the washer off. Any help would be appreciated.
The light stays on until the car is turned off. When restarted the light is off and may or may not come back on. All it takes is barely touching the brake pedal to cause it to come on. The brakes work fine so I'm thinking some sensor or relay?
this car is getting great gas pressure,it runs great sitting still what is the deal of a mat or an iac sensor on this model the check engine light is not on.the only code it had was a oxygen sensor and we put a new one on the car,we have put new ingition modcule,and new coils,and i have a new set of plugs to go into this car too.i have a new mator iac sensor ordered to go on this car too.
I have a navigation system with single cd, and 6 cd changer in the center console. What could be causing this, and how do I fix it ( make the noise stop)?Everything works fine, but the clicking noise is annoying.
I need help, desperately!! I have a 2002 Camry Toyota V6 XLE, which has about 101,000 miles. For the last 8 months I have been experiencing the same problem over and over. When approaching a stop sign or a red-light my car starts to sputter/"shake" and then when coming to a complete stop the car just shuts off ( music still plays) and all the lights turn on, on the dash. The car turns back on while tapping on the gas while i am turning the key. I noticed that the RPM is less than 1000 when it occurs and also the "needle" or what ever you call it, flickers as the car is sputtering.
I brought it to Toyota, where they fixed an air flow meter, and a mass air flow sensor. That did not take care of the problem. The car continued to present in the same manner. I then brought it to Firestone, and they said it could be a pump vac or something, which they replaced. Once again, this did not fix the problem. Now 8 months later and $1,100 poorer, my car is in the same condition. No check engine lights are on when this occurs. What could it be? Please help!!!
I have change almost everything in my car!, Bought a new pcm, and I'm thinking the codes aren't the same as the car? If that makes sense. I'm not a mechanic. My dad has tried to help me as well, but he is stumped. Tried to take it to a mechanic, but they say their computers don't do electrical things? I don't know, I'm just really tired of putting new parts in it, and nothing making it run. Any ideas?
when you turn on the a c the clutch doesnt engage