crankshaft position sensor code can reset by pulling off batt cables

first drive off. I take my foot off the gas then apply it again and everything is fine. This will happen even if I've driven it for several miles. It doesn't matter what road surface I am on or if the weather is rain or shine. This doesn't happen all the time. The car has done this ever since I bought it. What could possibly be causing this to happen?

checked fuses and bulb ok.

They're rattling loudly, all the time. They are def.gone

battery was drained from a light left on (kids!!), this all after a week of heavy rain. when i charged the battery the engine would crank but not start. then after a while it would start but then immediately stall. no hesitating, just completely shut down as though i just turned off the ignition. after another day, the car starts and runs longer but then shuts down again. then the 3rd day the car starts and seems to run fine. someone mentioned it might be the coils had gotten wet and are now dry, but i figured if that was the case wouldn't it stutter or hesitate before stalling, not completely shut down? what are the chances that all three coils in the bank are faulty? i also read that it could be the crankcase positioning sensor has cracked insulation.
any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I am told not necessary until 60,000

autozone checked it and the man told me it was a code he never saw something like vtec motor "variable timing" can I still drive this until I get paid ?

fuses are ok

is it possible to adjust my shift linkage..my gear shifter moves past the gear selected lighting the next gear and i have to gently move it up or down to align it,also my gear changes slip sometimes slightly.

of course the belt is tight and its 1 long belt,in my experience I have had to loosen the Altenator do I do
the same here? what is the easy route.Ruthi

I have a 94 sonoma 4x4 that when driving, when trying to stop, the engine revs high and it feels like I am giving it gas when I am not. When parked, the engine revs around 2k rpm now instead of around 1k like it was before. Recent problem. Has not thrown a code yet...

It will start, but after a period of time it will shut down, but when it cools it will start back. I was wondering if it's the cam sensor.

can this be done without a lift

In February 2010 at 114,000 miles, I had my valve cover gaskets and tensioners replaced because the valves were seeping oil causing a burning smell. Just 17 months and 8,000 miles later, a burning smell has returned. It's not as bad as it was, and I can't smell it (yet) while I am driving.

Are my valve cover gaskets bad AGAIN? If I ignore it, what is the downside? Will I eventually damage the engine? How long (time and miles) do I have? I only drive it 100-200 miles per month and one 2,200 mile trip per year.

Just got this car from a individual..and was thrilled when A/C worked...but when the evening temps dropped, I turned up the temp....and no heat...tried all different positions etc...floor, dash, defrost, etc....but no heat. Plenty of coolant. Don't know how to do the self diagnostics...or what it may mean...