217,231
questions

I just got new plug wires, changed the fuel injector, (niether of these matter in compression test) took car to autozone for diagnostic test: said, "misfiring", no bad sensors or anything other than just misfiring. This happened after the teeth all came off just around the crank on the timing belt, and i got a new timing belt and changed it. I bought the camshaft timing belt tool to hold the cams still while you put on the belt. I put on the belt step by step according to the chilton book on my meake and model. After I got it running, i coulkd tell right away that it wasnt running properly. I pulled the plug to each cylinder while running. all either bogged down to almost shuuting off or shutting off. The 1st cylinder was the exception. Pulling the plugwire to the 1st cylinder did not make a difference. Then I did a compression test. all cylinders had consistent readings except the 1st cylinder once again had absolutely NO compression. not even a slight of air came through.

There is also a sequnce that they must be torqed in as well, what would that be?

were is that relay and circuit

its totally bent in from me hitting a buck. doesn't look like engine damage, but first step is to replace the core support. Is it gonna be a hard job to do?

Multi-function switch was replaced. What else could be broke?

Cable inside the rear brake drum is broken and I do not know how the upper end disconnects. There seems to be a large, steel washer but I do not know how to remove it in order to replace the cable. I have the 3.5" wide shoes.

and the water pump and the upper hose is hot and the lower hose is cold. it sounds like a flow problem but can not find or know where to start. still has heat but temp gauge not reading right.

ONLY HAVE 74,000 MILES ON IT..THIS HAPPEN AFTER ALOT OF RAIN FROM IRENE STORM IN SEPT. WENT AWAY FOR 6 WEEKS AFTER STORM, WHEN I CAME HOME IT DIDN'T ACT UP. YESTERDAY I WENT TO START IT, AN WOULDN'T KICK OVER RIGHT AWAY. I TURNED THE KEY OFF AN TRIED AGAIN AND IT STARTED AS SOON AS I TURN THE KEY. BUT I DIDN'T WANT TO DRIVE IT, THOUGHT I WOULD GET STRAINED. SOMONE SAID THAT IT MAY BE A CIRCUIT WIRE. WHICH I DID HAVE ONE FIXED ABOUT 5 YEARS AGO. I UNDERSTAND THERE IS 5 OR 6 OF THEM AN IT WOULD COST ALOT IF I HAD ALL OF THEM CHANGED. SOMEONE SAID THEY CAN PUT A CHECK ON WHICH ONE IS GIVING ME TROUBLE AND CHANGE JUST THE ONE'S THAT ARE BAD. IF THEY CHANGE ALL IT WOULD COST ME 1600 TO 1800 DOLLARS.. IS THIS THE COST, AN CAN YOU TELL ME IF THIS MAY BE THE TROUBLE?

The coolant is a tad low, just barely. Shouldn't cause any problems like that. And the rear heater seems to be working fine. There is a rear heater control for the back passengers. Idunno...

I replaced the belt, spark plugs, and starter module. It won't start but it has a spark now

This happens every time and is very annoying.

this is on the drivers side

what is cost for ball joints replacement on both sides and alignment

My a/c woll blow cold then hot,from one sode to the other?? You can kill the engine , restart then it starts working rite. Dealership said I need to change the a/c thermostats, there are four, $ 1800.00 repair. HELP????

I have the replacement part and need to identify the proper coil to replace.