i have a 2003 nissan altima v6 with 157,000 miles and just started making a knocking noise when cranked and i'm afraid to drive it maybe resulting in more serious prolbems..could you please help me?

When I have the lights set to "auto" they are always on now, even in bright sunlight. This was not the case for the first 6 months or so when I bought the car; they were truly automatic, based on daylight or cloudiness, etc. I washed the car (in a general manner) but don't know where the sensor is to give it a better scrubbing. It's not something I want to bring to the dealer for if I can just check to see if there's road grime built up, etc. The car is 9 months old with 10,000 miles.

I am trying to order the CV Joints and there are both kinds, with and/or without ABS....

how often change spark plugs

is there a fuseable link?
or fuse box that has blown a fuse to cause this
or is the ignition bad?

The vehicle starts up and will idle just fine. As soon as I start driving and accelerating to higher speeds the car sputters and will then shut down. After I wait a few minutes it starts right up- only this time with the check engine light on. I have taken the car to 2 shops ( not dealerships ) and have been told that it can either be bad fuel or the optispark distributor. Either way not sure if this mechanical or electrical. Only 112k on the clock- probably still has plenty of miles left. I am not an auto tech- but my guess here is that this might very well be a fuel pump related issue. I use shell 93 octane for this bad boy and when it was working before this it was really moving. Any other answers here. Thanks.

Very Often this occurs, well when it rains sometimes it doesn't make the noise.

was told front wheel bearing were bad, $500.00 to fix parts & labor do not have $ would like step by step on replacing front wheel bearing on my 4x4 trooper. it has automatic locking hub, illustration would be better. pls help!!!

Today, I slid under the vehicle as it was parked in my driveway to see that the transfer case is oily on the outside. could that be connected? it's a Columbia edition.

I need to know if you can purchase just the plastic "lift-rod" part of the gear shifter. The top of it broke off and I have to manually push it in to put the vehicle in gear. I need to know what this is called and possibly a part number.

Dash lights flash when car is shutting down. Same issue starting.Sometimes will not start.

I checked the electronic throttle control fuse and it is good

the key spins in the tumbler and the car will not start.

gurgling resevoir

2nd gen 2002 dodge ram 2500
Engine: 5.9 ISB cummins
Current Milage: 120.110 (have a company vehicle that eats most of all the annual business miles!)

Replaced at 120.000 miles 9-14-2010:
-Primary fuel pump is the Fuel Boss mechanical Fuel Pump System from Glacier Diesel Power,

-Seconday (back-up pump) is the FASS DDRP Direct Drop In to replace factory pump, from Glacier Diesel Power,

The Direct Drop In is to initiate when fuel pressure drops below 12 PSI,...however,...that does not actually happen.

-Maximizer Big Fuel Line Kit,from Glacier Diesel Power,

-FASS F/W 2 micron separator kit,from Glacier Diesel Power,

-Old VP44 is replaced with a Blue Chip diesel Special X pump

-Edge Products: 2001-2002 Dodge 5.9L Cummins Juice w/ Attitude CTS

Truck dies while driving at any speed, even when my fuel tank is always inbetween half empty and FULL.
I add about 250 ml of LUCAS fuel addtive/injector cleaner at every fill up.
Sometimes I can drive for 5 minutes, and sometimes for 10-15 or even 20 minutes before the truck JUST shuts down out of nowhere!
The Engine doesnt give any warning either,...out of the blue,...it just shuts down,?!?!?!? (like turning the ignition key off but without actually doing that)

Truck starts a bit rough,..but then corrects it's self pretty quick (within 5 seconds),....runs like a sunshine at idle 800Rpm.
The Fuel pressure used to be 18 PSI continous no matter how high or low the rpm,..however after this "die" while driving event, the fuel pressure drops to a mere 6PSI at idle, when I reve the engine up to 1000Rpm or higher the fuel pressure restores itself back to 17-18 PSI

All this was two weeks ago,.....my truck has been sitting on my driveway since!
I'm worried about starting/running my truck,...due to the extremely low fuel pressures during idle.
I really do not want too mess up another VP44! $$$$$$$

Codes through CTS:
*P0230: Fuel Pump Primary Circuit
*P1693: Fault In Companion Module

-The Big Boss Fuel Pump is the Primary Circuit, with "normally" 17-18PSI,....so I'm not sure how this can even be a problem?!?!?
Although,...there is a very very small amount of play on the axle of the Fuel Boss pump,...the belt on the other hand has about half an inch of (flex) play.
I'm not really sure how to get that out either?,...put some metal shins inbetween the mounting bracket or something?!?!?

-Fault in Companion Module? Which Module? ECM, PCM, Juice with Attitude?!?!? which??????
-Cleaned all Electrical connectors, even the ones without residue.
-Fuel lines,
-Replaced F/W separator filter and fuel filters.
-Oil filters
-Transmission oil change and filters - there was NO metal parts in old oil.
-Diconnect the Edge CTS and juice, problem still there

***I havent cleaned out the fuel tank yet,....mainly due to the fact that I do not have a container big enough to hold a FULL tank of diesel in!
Plus,...as far as i know of,....cleaning out a fuel tank is/was only effective on the steel fuel tanks from older vehicles,....never heard of cleaning out a plastic one.

I tried diconnecting the Edge CTS and juice,.....however,...the "die out of nowhere" problem is still there!

So,...Did anyone come across the same problem,....and if so what was the cause of it?

Next to all of that,.....my AUTOMATIC transmission was hunting / having trouble going into 4th gear right before it died the FIRST time!

I have no clue where/what else it could be,...please help!

Also,....my Truck will NOT shift out of second gear.
I let off the go pedal and got right back on it and then it shifted.
40 miles later I stopped at the RV dump station and when I started back up it would not leave 2nd gear AGAIN.
I continued on 8 miles to my house and it never did leave 2nd gear.

Prior to this it would occassionally hunt between 45 and 60 mph but this IS the first time this has happened.
I let it cool down and then head back out on the hiway, and still will not shift out of 2nd.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.