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My 2009 Accord battery keeps dying. They said the battery was fine. ???Only 10
My vehicle is a 1998 Dodge Stratus 4 door 2.5 engine. The other day I drove the car for awhile in the morning and then returned home. I went to leave again and the car would not start. The car has power, the lights work, and don't dim when applying the brakes. It does blow the 20 amp fuse that goes to the ignition, fuel,starter as soon as I turn the igntion switch right away and does not make any kind of noise. I have tried replacing the relay breaker but it still blows the 20 amp fuse as soon as I turn the ignition switch. What could cause this to happen.
What I have tried so far.-Replacing the relay fuse the goes to te 20 amp fuse for the ignition, fuel, starter. Jumping the car. Checking the connects to the battery.
What happens when I try to start the car is the engine won't turn over and then the alarm system starts going off
He has changed the TPS (Throttle Postion Sensor) still no luck. Truck acts like it wants to die not enough fuel. He is no mechanic and is completely at a loss. He will not take my advice I think it has something to do with the fuel filter or something. I say start small and work up to the big stuff,thats what my dad always did and he was a mechanic. Please help me out He is driving me crazy.
As it is attached to the Gas Door an there is no screws to remove it..
It is a Black flat Plastic piece so have no ideal how to get that off the door if I use a screw driver it most likely will break the plastic clip..
can you put the old balancer two parts back togather if the rubber seal is still good?
I have some of the lights on the dash that went off. The one most annoying is the odometer light. The dealer told me it could be simple bulb replacement but would take 2 hours labor or $250!
Where can I find the steps or diagrams to replace burned bulbs in the dash?
It has a switch in the engine compartment that is labeled 1 and 2, and the 4matic light on the dashboard is on. I have tried both positions with no changes on the engine compartment switch. It was this way when I bought it but did not know there was a problem until the first snowfall when I could not get out of my driveway :(
Bearings or Brakes
The car had a constant tapping sound so I replaced the rod and main barrings. The tapping stopped however, when started from a cold startyou hear three taps and then the sound goes away while the engine is running. What is making the 3 taps when cold start?
CAR WONT GO IN GEAR ,BRAKE LIGHT ISN'T WORKING WHAT'S WRONG WITH IT AND HOW MUCH DO YOU THINK IT WILL BE TO FIX IT?????
the other day when i was driving i changed lane and when i placed my foot on the gas pedal again the car would rev up but would not increase speed and before i knew it i was losing power. i kept on pressing on the gas pedal and nothing just kept reving up but not going forward. i had it towed to my neighbourhood, i really need my car and i can't afford repairs right now seeing how i'm school and what not. if i can have it work for another 6 monthes i'll be happy with that i should be done my studies and well into my career. plzzzzzz anyone
ps i live in Toronto, Canada, i couldn't send my question without providing an american zip code
I have been experiencing a rubbing/grinding sound when braking while driving straight and turning. Also, it makes the same noise when turning left, even if brakes are not applied. It does this even if I merge lanes to the left. The brake pads and rotors have been inspected and were perfectly fine--they were changed 2 years ago. I don't know what this could be, but the sound worries me.
from that start to happen the car dont throttle steady
it drive on buck and start to drive again