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When I start my 1997 rav4 up after it's been off for an hour or overnight and it makes a ticking/knocking noise. But it goes away after a few seconds and it drives very smooth, and engine sound great. Even when sitting or at stop lights it sounds good, just the first few seconds of starting it up sounds bad.

hard to push break when was driving

Car leaks oil daily.
Car is well care for, 97K miles.
Is this an expected "wear and tear" repair?
I have been quoted $1000K.
Is this accurate?

cant figuire whats wrong with my 1994 expo.engine starts and idles but wont go. wont back up or anything.i heard it could be a tourque converter. do you know where this is located? i have a cell phone number u can text me its 985-590-8107. thanks

Hi, I have a 2001 with close to 250,000 miles on it. Throughout it's life the check engine light has periodically come on and gone back off (error codes were never read). Recently, I acquired the car and when the light came on had the code read (PO420). I noticed a smell around this same time of oil or burning rubber coming in through the vents (mostly when the heat is cranked up). I don't remember a smell prior to the light (but I was driving it more sparingly then in better temperatures). I took it to a local garage and he said to replace the catalytic converter - I asked about the O2 sensors and he said it would not be them. I replaced the converter and within a two months the light was back on. He thought it might have been a faulty converter so he put a new one in. Two months later my light is back on. The mechanic said the next step would be getting the computer replaced at a dealership. How much does this cost and is this the most likely cause of the trouble?

I already replaced the battery but the problem persists. The last time it started I had many errors on the display

P0171, P0174, P0300, P1083,P1085
P0313, P1342, P1344, P1346, P1348, P1350,P1352 . . . I am getting rough idling and sluggish performance. My research tells me it may be the Intake Manifold Runner Valve/Adjuster Unit or Idle Control valve or Mass Air flow Sensor or Cam Shaft Position Sensor or Vacuum Leak or Oxygen Sensor. Or it may need a good Tuneup. The car lacks acceleration. The rough idling with sometimes engine shutoff occurs mostly in the idle position.

Hope this helps!


just had my car battery go out

won`t start.Have to pull hose from intake and cover with hand while someone turns key to start.then when driven will stall out.has 130,000 miles. new plug wire,plugs clean,has been sitting 3 months.

The leak is coming from the front passenger side

The leak is coming from the front passenger side

also wheel shakes when im slowing down

i have a 2000 buick park avenue that shuts off going 50 mph then will not let me restart it until i drain the battery and get a jump start when trying to restart it starts for a second and shuts off like the security system is activated cause it says unknown driver on the dash

I found out a hose that was going into the transmission was bent, and causing the leak, but i do not know what the part is called to find it in stores.. This is a hose that goes into the transmission and reachable from the bottom of the car.. does anyone know what it is called?

Where is it located