I have changed the shift cylinoid(SP?) and the transmission computer. I have had it to 3 shops and no answer..Please help

I have changed the shift cylinoid(SP?) and the transmission computer. I have had it to 3 shops and no answer..Please help

Also, what is a typical cost for this service.

When I call to get a price I say I need a power steering hose for the high pressure side. Than they ask me if its for the pump or gear???

when i have it on park its actually on reverese, when i have it on neutral its on overdrive, so basically everything moved up.
I need to adjust it to be back how it originally was because my reverse lights stay on when i turn the car off and it kills the battery. so how do i go about adjusting this? or would i have to change the shifting cable itself?

I have no problems getting my car to crank, but once I let off the gas it dies. The engine light is on but I'm not sure what the problem is.

Am replacing starter, cannot get to top bolt due to the plastic wire holder blocking it. It looks like it's held on by same bolt holding on starter, not sure.

how much is a transmission flush

I have had my spark plugs changed in November. I have had my oil changed in December. Three weeks ago, I had my timing belts changed. Last Wednesday, I had to get a new battery. What else could it be? I have tried going from unleaded gas to premium gas, no success. I have tried putting gas treatment in the tank as well. Any advice? Thanks.

Recall issued for fuel regulator. "On certain passenger vehicles equipped with 3800 V6 engines and certain Delphi fuel pressure regulators, the regulators have a much higher than usual rate of fuel leaks. A leak can allow fuel to enter the intake manifold through a vacuum line. If the engine does not start when cranked, the fuel from the leaking regulator and a mistimed spark can cause a backfire...The backfire can rupture the intake manifold. The rupture of the intake manifold can displace a fuel line, pulling an injector out of place, and causing a fuel leak and possible fire.

Here's what happened--A loud pop was heard right after turning key, and flames started shooting out of engine. Fire was put out quickly. Fire left a large crater in the center top rear of the engine. Car had very occasionally experienced small backfires when starting for a couple of months prior to this happening. Bought the car used a little over a year before this happened.

Went online before scrapping car and found the recall notice (#48585) and called GM. Per instructions, had car towed to local Buick dealer for inspection to see if fire was related to recall. Dealer says "Fuel regulator is in from of engine and fire was in rear, so not the problem. Not covered under recall."

I'm not a mechanic, but I've puttered with vehicles, appliances, and other things enough to know that my reasoning of a problem is usually fairly accurate. Am I mistaken in believing that a fire caused by this problem is most likely to occur on top of the engine, where/near where the intake manifold is located, not at the front of the engine where the fuel pressure regulator is located?

Dealer also says they tested the fuel pressure regulator and it was fine--correct pressure. Could faulty pressure be intermittent and not show a problem with a single time testing? Is testing even accurate when the top of the engine, including intake manifold is gone due to the fire?

Thanks for helping with this question.

my right motor head is receiving right amount of oil, but left motor head is getting none? new lifters, new rockers, and new push rods all installed but the left side still will not oil.

Broke two off originaly, got one out, with extractor tool. Tried all kinds of things. Decided to remove the head. I have removed the intake and now realized, I don't have the time to do this job and bending over inside the hood is not what it use to be. Now I'm wanting to pay someone to do it and need advise on finding a place that will do a professional job, for a less than dealer ship price.I want the heads redone, like new and I want the truck to run like new when finished with as long of a warantee has I can get.

In leaving the dealership following the 60,000 service, my '06 Kia Amanti seemed out of timing and has not run smoothly since that time. Mechanics have taken it apart, checked everything and now feel it may be the tensioner. My feeling is it drove smoothly when I brought it in, but has been jerky, not smooth, since the service.

The light bulbs on my climate control panel are burned out.

OBD code is P0101 The van will not accelerate and shift properly. It's fine in park or neutral when accelerating