Have not attempted any removal as yet

I removed the throttle body cove and the wire hold down braket for cylinders 1,2 and 3 I can't get at the sensor its blocked by a wirer harness how do i move this out of my way?

I had my water expansion tank replaced, two weeks later the CEL lit and had the Porsche Dealership service the car, their code findings were cylinder 1-3-5 not working. Causes could be cooling leak into them.

The car started and ran fine until engine temp. reached 180 degree then it started to idle rough plus the CEL lit & stay on while driving. The car do not burn or smoke from pipes at start-up or while idling.

Any ideas what could causing this problem, I appreciate any info of a possible solution.


I can't figure out what kind of tool I need to adjust the lights. Allen wrench? Or what? The bolts are star shaped, but, it looks as if you need something to fit OVER the bolt...

Is it easy to replace the filter on it's own or do you have to replace pump as well. Car will start but lose power immediately after start. It is off and on problem. Guessing it could be filter. Want to replace filter before the pump to see if that causes the problem...suggestions?

What causes this and what is the repair needed?

the trooper won't fire just put on new timing chain and have to get the order rt on the cap.

where is the oil pressure sending unit located?

Hi, do you know where the knock sensors are located on a 2002 chevy express 1500, 4.3 v6 van.
i`m getting code P0327 Bank 1.

thank you

there is a leak coming from my gear box I need to know if I can replace the seal and how?

there is very little oil on the ground while my car is parked and sometimes none at all but was told to replace both gaskets and the labor would be about 600. is this correct?

I'd like to advise my local repair shop

Stays on, planning local, not dealer service

car didn't run hot

Coolant leak on '91 DOHC Protege coming from the seal between coolant bypass tube and the water inlet housing that attaches to the water pump. There's no clamp; only a rubber seal that fits over the end of the bypass tube.

The seal is very loose on the bypass tube, and is also too large to fit inside the inlet housing - is this supposed to be a "presses against the end of the housing" fit, or is the seal supposed to allow the bypass tube to slide into the housing?

Alternatively to replacing that seal, I'm wondering if I should just get a short piece of hose and clamp it over the connection.

Anyone with knowledge of this issue?