214,632
questions

When it rains and is cold outside it turns over but will not start. I've changed the ECM,temperature sensor, distributor cap/rotor. crank sensor, wires, and spark plugs. the codes that are showing now are P1345 and P1351.

When I tried to start to warm up in the morning it wont start. All the lights work and it sounds like it wants to start almost like you turned the key to far and held it there. I put a code reader on it says code 2070 possible intake manifold tuning valve stuck open. Could this be right and that is why its not starting. When I look online most people say there check engine light is on and it still runs. My engine light didnt come on before this happened. Also I cannot find and DIY diagrams or manuals to try to help fix with out paying dealer. No warrenttee no $$

I have a vat key that broke off in the ignitiomn

One day the car would not start, a mechanic told me that it gave him the code for a bad computer module.

also I'm stuck H4 and I can't get back to N without the lights on the tires turning on.

2002 Passat GLS 1.8T Sedan - $61k miles
Reason for Check Engine Light (#1, 2, 3)
#1 Diagnostic Procedure 5052 - Bank 1, Sensor #2 internal resistance too high
- Replace O2 Sensor #2 =$199 parts + $200 labor = $400 plus tax
#2 System too lean - all vacuum hoses are broke $24 parts + $200 Labor = $224 + Tax
#3 Also Misfire in cylinder #3 and #4 - spark plugs are wasted $18x4= $72 parts + $100 Labor = $172 + Tax

ADDITIONAL RECOMMENDATIONS:
#4 Coolant bottle is completely dirty, needs a new bottle and a flush - $290
#5 40k Tune Up = $750 (which is odd because I'm at $61k)

I have intalled a new brake switch. this happens whether the headlights are on auto or manuel. the auto fuction is always on and can not be turned off,if you switch it off it just reactivates when you turn the switch on.

I ALREADY RELACED THE SILENOID,ONE DAY LATER THE ENGINE LIGHT WENT BACK ON...

Timing belt
Water pump
Valve gasket

now what? The back shocks are being replaced next, could that have anything to do with the noise, appears it is coming from under front fender well. I have nothing to jack up the car to look for myself.

The heat control bar has one arrow showing all the way on H and after 30 seconds all the arrows start flashing from C to H and then after about 60 seconds stops flashing with no arrows showing,Ihave removed the actuator motor and the door is not stuck,does this mean the actuator is bad or is there another issue. Thank You in advance... Wildman63

im having a problem removing old cover

car just shuts down,and or misses often.

I had this code p0420 for almost 3 years, but the light goes ON and OFF so somehow i passed the emissions, but now it's getting closer again and don't know what to do. I guess it's a air leak, but any ideas how to find and where to look for a air leak? The other code p0299 i have no idea, it's for my turbo, but the turbo works most of the time and sometimes when i push the gas pedal down the turbo don't works, so i am assuming maybe it's a air leak that is causing this two error.
Thank you !

I have isolated the front from the rear and determined the front is the cause to the pedal bleeding down. I bleed numerous times. Booster works perfectly, no air leaks. Only rear abs. I also replaced both calipers. To isolate the front, I disconnected the rear brake line from the master cylinder and plugged it. Pedal goes to the floor slowly. I disconnected both lines from master cylinder and plugged. The cylinder locks up, no movement.