I have 71,400 miles in my 2000 Avalon. The check engine light came on 4-5 years ago. Took it to Lewisville Toyota and they replaced and charged my over $400 for a new canister. Light came back on and I called back. They said there are a number of reasons the light comes on. Scam. Went on internet and purchased an OBDII tool to read codes and turn light off. Oxygen sensor costs $159.00 and need someone near Garland Texas to install an charge an honest fee. OBDII tool says incorrect purge. What I have been doing is turning the light off and driving about 130 miles and taking it in for inspection. Passes every time but I am geeting sick of turning off. Can someone recommend an honest shop to do this work for me? Codes usually P4001 and 4006, I think.

the alternator is whining, sometimes at startup sometimes after warmup. no warning lights and car works fine. afraid it may fail soon, getting more frequent, and louder. it doesn't sound like a bearing however i am not sure.
Thanks for any help.

The heater in the back of the van stopped blowing hot air. This just recently happened in the last mth. Last winter it worked fine. My heater in the front of the van works just fine. My kids are freezing. Please help. What would cause this and would it cost alot to fix?

Technician said engine is holding up by one bracket/mount.

ok i have a 1994 ford ranger 4 speed manual with over drive i have no clutch pedal it will go into all gears while the engine is off but it will not go into no gear while it is running i can start it in first gear but need to hold the break real hard cause it wants to take off the back tires spen while the clutch pettal is still in what is the problem

I clean the passage very good still getting same code po505, I change the iac (idle air control) & still getting the po505 what else can i check or change, please help with this problem. Thanks.

Have Valve train noise at 56,000 miles, engine oil and filter changed, drove about 70 miles have ticking noise that comes on at higher engine speeds, such as just before the auto trans 1-2 shift or above 45 MPH at constant throttle, letting off the accelerator ticking goes away, comes back as accelerated. car sat for about 6 yrs before this. Hard to get ticking noise just free reving engine with hood up have to rev engine to high rpm. Engine is quiet at idle and smooth. The ticking noise doesn't always come in at the the same speed and is louder some times. Have valve cover off, can't see any broken or loose. pieces, checked with magnet, nothing. Tried pushing down lifter end of rocker arms with engine at idle, all made about the same noise, only one a little more took rocker and lifter out nothing visable. If I remove all rockers can I measure the overall height of valve/retainer/spring to determine if the valve seats have moved or sunk? THKS

I got the "bulb/socket ssembly" out where I can access the bulb and socket, but cannot pull the bulb out of the socket.

The map lights will come on when I stop at a stop sign. Or will not turn off when I park and take the key out. They will go off after about 20 min, then turn back on. Very frustrating to go out in the morning, and the battery is dead.

I was driving on the highway, it was very low on water, over heating badly but I continued to drive to my destination for oil change & radiator flush at my uncles garage. Now it shakes and hesitates while driving, idling. Is there engine damage? Would changing the spark plugs stop the hesitation? Is the head gasket blown? Is the engine warped? What damage could the overheating cause? I'm scared to drive it, especially long distance now.

my sunroof operates just fine.My driver and passenger windows will not operate up or down.

What tools do I need and do the shocks need special tools to be compressed?

the blower works. at first heat will come out but it turns cold after awhile


How do i jump it to get the compressor to come on so I can get it to take the freon