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The alternator was checked and is working. We replaced the battery. After a few days of minor driving, we then drove the car we got to our destination, the car died. The battery appears to have been drained.

I have replaced ignition switch and starter relay.I have checked the voltage at the starter.I am positive the problem is between the relay and the starter because there is no voltage when problem exist.I can hold the switch in the start position for approx. ten seconds then it starts.thanks for your input.

get too Ignition Starter you have to remove the Manifold thats when I notice M.I.L on the O.B.D. read P1077 , P1078 was this caused by Mechanic Error

My heat and air control panal lights are not working when my headlights are on

is there any tips on how to remove any easy?

when you execrate it bogs down or dies,if you feather it doesn't die but takes its sweet time to get going,after it going it seems fine? help.74,0000 miles onit

2007 ford escape and i just went over 100,000 milse and it doesnt happen all the time. mostly while accelerating

can soe one please help??

I read somewhere else that I could remove the accelerator assembly, loosen the 2 adjustment screws and rotate the sensor to get a better idle.

We did this with the switch but now it won't close. I looked at it up close and it seems that there are 2 arms connecting window to roof. One of them is no longer connected. Before I start taking it apart I would like to know if this is something easy to fix and how should I approach it? Thanks

I used the repairpal estimator: alternator part $235-319 and labor $53-67. Mechanic quoted $185 new alternator, labor of 1.5 hours for $144. Should I have kept shopping around? or told them an alternator shouldn't require 1.5 hours?

When I asked to keep the failed alternator (thinking I could get some money for it), they said the manufacturer needs it back; otherwise they'd have to charge me for it. Huh?

Does that mean I got a remanufactured unit? Invoice says the part is "new" and has this description "LES-13787N". Mechanic said it's OEM.

Finally, with the rest of work done, I was billed 3 hours labor. But, my car was in and out in 1.5 hours. I don't understand this.

Any advice for future reference? Thanks.

driver door was not locking and unlocking. it drained the battery. now door is fixed and battery is charged. radio comes on without sound, even with cd there still is no sound.

Trans has all new clutches orings seal etc. when i installed it back in car i hac no reverse all foward gears work noise nothing.chacked all wiring and solenoids.when i first cranked it up i put it in reverse and it wanted to move foward so i drove it down the road and it shifted out fine buit when i stoped it had nothing iin reverse and still no nosise can anyone help email or phone 8502663242 ASK FOR rANDY

my galant ES squeaks loudly just outside the firewall where the power steering lines connect to it. im not that familiar with DSM parts so do i just need to lubricate it? or is there something else that needs to be done? also can i get some tips on how to fix this because i dont have all data anymore.

im new at this and im tryin to put it back together myself. i cant get any1 in my area to do the work
i have to reassemble it from the head up