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If you can,I'll need full details or step by step how to do this.You see I had a minor stroke and working or fixing things seems to have gotten not so easy to do and I can't seem to find a book on my car.

High beams still work. Both headlamps were replaced less then a year ago. I have swapped around a couple of the relays inside the under hood fuse box but no change. Was driving down a county road doing 50mph and went from high beams to low and the road went dark, low beams have not worked since.

High beams still work. Both headlamps were replaced less then a year ago. I have swapped around a couple of the relays inside the under hood fuse box but no change. Was driving down a county road doing 50mph and went from high beams to low and the road went dark, low beams have not worked since.

it seems like its not getting gas and sometimes the gas pedal doesent work and it stalls all the time unless i have my foot on the gas pedal ive changed the coil packs and spark plugs and now i dont know what to do its reading 12 different codes and its all pretty much just o2 sensors

When I drive on the hiway about 55mph to 70mph I can feel the surging like the fuel is cutting out.

had problem with my truck randomly sputtering like it wasnt getting any gas. replaced fuel pump,fuel filter,and rotor cap. fuel pressure good {20}. still sputtering. then i pulled the vacum hose on the air filter because the flapper was closed.runs little better but what is the relation with the vacum causing the flapper to close and not let air into the carb. is it a tranny issue ?

we have changed relay switches in the fuse box and this does not help. It seems to start after about ten minutes.

UNABLE TO UNLOCK THE STEERING WHEEL, AND KEY WILL NOT TURN.

rear fan came on last week then stoped

I will turn the heat on to allow warm are to flow through the ducts. At some point in time there will be a "switching" noise and it will automatically change from going through the ducts to going to the defrost vents while the button on the controls will be on the for the ducts only. Again some time will pass and the "switching noise" will go from the defrost vents back to the origional position through the ducts. I have replaced the heating/cooling controls twice with the same results.

If I play blower motor controls for about a mile (rapidly changing from high to low then high then low) I can get it back to flowing from the ducts and not the defrost vents.

Again when I press the button for heat to travel through the Ducts at some point the heat will automaticlly change from the ducts to the defrost vents without the defrost button not being touched.

Thanks

I had the tires rotated and balanced and now when driving after hitting 60+MPHs and slowing down the wheels shake and shutter.

The power battery light came on, then the power steering went out, manual says it is most likely the v-belt, and upon opening the hood can see the broken belt

I discovered this a couple weeks after I purchased the car,(used). I had the dealer shampoo it 3 times but it is still oily and they offered no suggestions as to why it is that way. Could there be something leaking that is causing this? I have taken it to 3 mechanics with no solution or ideas.

Tire has since been replaced and lights refuse to go off.

hestitate in low speed, sometimes like horsing!! engine always die in low speed corner and uphilling. I remember it happened after the touchless carwash!! Ps heip!!!