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ive changed the water pump and thermostat and the timing belt was changed and there is no oil in water or water in oil and there is no water coming out of the exhaust but still it over heats and even the fans come on

plus have a rattling noise under the hood could it be the timing chain

pulled a code from auto zone p0455 what does mean

My mechanic is telling me that it cost $4500 to replace my engine. Is this correct, because, I feel like I could be getting ripped off.

I let my boyfriends step-dad work on my car bc he's a mechanic. when I bought the car 3 months ago, the guy said he put a new motor in it. there's 65xxx on it. after the last time my boyfriends father messed with my car, it's caused a knocking noise. what could it be??

where do you put it in at

van was stolen had used steering collumn put in also has intermittin turn signals .

The front is lowered to the point where the tires are rubbing. the rear looks fine & inside the level screen it says im on level 3???

raised car up pushed gas and oil came spuing out....i see two hoses is it coming from them or leaking out and makes it appear that way....sorry to confused

th are checked out fine. just had an interlock device installed on it also my mechanic has it wired to start when you pust a button to start the fan and the car. what could it be that its not starting?

loose. Replaced the cv joint and the same looseness is still there. Appears to be the shaft coming out of the transmission which has the movement. Transmission is fine, oil is good, and spoke to mechanic at Chrysler dealership who researched the problem and advised they have no reports of this problem. The noise goes away after a while and then returns. Does anybody have any ideas what might be causing this problem?

2nd air: Unready
02 Heater: Unready

All other tests pass. I have put over 500 miles on the car and still same results. The engine check light is not on.

Starting off, the trans. hesitates a few seconds and then jumps into low gear...
Driving on the highway, it will suddenly jump into passing gear...
I think it's a switch somewhere malfunctioning, or something to do with the vacuum ???????
Has anyone experienced this before ???
PS. I can put the selector in "N" and allow the engine to slow {at 55-or 60 MPH } to 2200 rpm or there about and put it back in drive and it"s usually ok.......


i notice now that my car dont change gears while driving even after i change the oil

Replaced O2 sensor and air filter box. Re- smoged car after repairs-passed. Customer took to Test only station
failed three incomplete moitors. O2 Cat. and Evap. When I
tested monitors passed. Cust took to T.O. Station turned car off then failed on monitors. Why?