Problem occurs whenever speeds exceed 15-20 mph. It started originally only occuring at highway speeds.

I got this car and got it smogged on Saturday, but on Sunday afternoon my check engine light came on. I took it to a shop and they ran a diagnostic and told me I had a bad EGR system. However with a bit of research it doesn't seem possible to pass smog with a bad EGR valve. Maybe it's just dirty or maybe it's something else? It starts up a little rough but idles and drives well, but I did notice a lack of power at low speeds on a cold engine on Monday.

How much time should this take and how much should it cost

I also have a slight transmission leak. Could this just be a lose transmission pan?

With headlights off, eurovan temp gauge gets a false overtemp.
turn headlights on, while rotating dimmer wheel down then up, tachometer operation is directly affected. (dimmer wheel down,tach. works, dimmer wheel up,tach. does not works).
Also dimmer wheel down,get a false overtemp with red blinking overtemp light,dimmer wheel up,temp. gauge creeps back to normal range but tach. drops to zero. correlation of tach. movement is directly affected by dimmer wheel movement.
also, when headlights are on, there is dash area illumination except for all instrument cluster gauges.
I have so far replaced temp sensor, inoperative horns, contact cleaned all fuse/relay plugs. Help please.

In the last week the steering wheel started to wobble, not a lot but noticable. The van has done 240000km's.
I have new CV joints and front wheel bearing to fit. is there anything else i should consider to replace? Does anyone know the exact problem?
Nothing has been replaced before

When not driven for a while then comes off after restart.when driven regularly the light doesnt come on.

Must put in neutral at stops of vibration is very uncomfortable at driver seat. Bad when fan is on for heater or A/C. Worse yet when A/C light in middle of fan knob is lit. Vibration noticeable when in neutral and park but significantly reduced. Replaced front and rear motor mount, helped but still strong.

Wasn't doing this before I did tune up, added new fuel pump, adv valve was changed, exhaust hole patched, supercharger oil drained 2x, new battery, changed starter, serpentine belts and so on. Car used to go hill and pick up speed easily, now it's bogging on just a slight inclination when speed is accelerated between 40 & 50 mph.

Heater blows cold air.

a 2003 ml350 mercedes

clock radio went out. transmission won't sihft out of park unless manually. speedometer won't work. reverse lights don't work when you put it in reverse manually. replaced cigar fuse twice and blows within 3 miles of driving. any suggestions

i keep putting in cds and the player keeps spitting them back out, why is tht?

plugs in the front were right there how do you get to the plugs in back

is this an electrical problem that can b fixed