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I just checked my trouble code and got a 14 (ignition signal). Does anyone know the things to check for?

I've been told that I have a broken valve guide on valve #5.

In drive SMG would not engage...engine would just rev.Suddenly it would catch and lurch forward.Then it would clear for several miles...then reappear again.Changed battery as it was suggested by dealer that 6 yr.old battery may not power all the onboard electronics.Red "COG" is now back with a vengeance
Yesterday RED COG again, would not engage in drive or reverse and then stalled and would not restart[middle of rush hour intersection]5 minutes later it started and ran without problems.What is going on?

Codes said to replace knock sensor but check engine light stays on.
Also, there was the smell of raw gas in the cabin and on the left side under hood but no sign of leak.

my car will still not start. very little spark when i check. Help please.

I have an Acura 1996 TL 2.5 with 110k miles.Leather seats are showing wear and spliting in areas. I purchased it with 17k miles. I sale value is est at $1800. I am starting to have issues with a/c.heater blowers, power window motor, brakes/rotors/cv boot replacement and a leak in the slow oil leak. (no sure where that is coming from) I am sure it could use new plugs/wires and who knows what else. I could take my money and put it into the car and repair everything OR I am thinking about purchasing a Caddy 2005 sts with 89k miles for $12k. Any advise on what your thoughts would be? I would greatly appreciate it. The Caddy is at a dealership and has had new pads/new tires and there were no other motor issues detected.

Car just had timing belt pulleys tensioner and water pump changed.

Car just had timing belt and water pump changed as well pulleys tensioner etc.

The car had been sitting for months and after replacing starter and new battery the rear right wheel is locked up in either forward or reverse. It just slides on the driveway macadem when pressing accellerator. I haven't been able to unloosen the lug nuts yet to remove the wheel and check it.

when the fresh air is turned on or off the flap goes tap tap tap wont stay open or closed sounds like motor is running constantaly

scanned got po500 & po753 changed shift solenoid po500 went away

I have changed both the ign cyl&key, and the passlock sensor ass. After learn procedure, the light will go out after starting, but after a few ignition cycles the light will begin flashing again, with no start condition again. I have performed relearn procedure again, and again. What else is involved?

Car will barely go in drive and low 4. It does better in low 2. it jumps slightly when go to reverse.

Anytime I run the air or heat water will fill the floor. It is pure water with no antifreeze. I have been told its a condensation valve stopped up but have had no luck in finding it.

When I jump pin 1 and 2 I ghet excellent flow fuel into a
small container for good 30 seconds...
then I install MAS relay (which has fuel pump relay inside)
and only get trickle for 2 seconds...tried used spare....flows good for only 3 seconds....
is it possible both MAS relays defective.......or isthere other possible electrical vudu thing going on ???