i have a 98 jeep grand cherokee when i purchased it the factory alarm worked when i locked the door before exiting the light would start flashing and the alarm would be armed then it started only arming every once in a while now it want arm at all i purchased a key fob and had it programmed at dealer and it works great it locks and unlocks my doors and has a panic button that works to but the alarm still want arm when the alarm would arm the interior lights would go directly out now they stay on for a short period of time then cut off but it doesnt arm the alarm and advice would be helpful thanks in advance...Bobby

Driving along, dash pops up "restricted performance", temp gauage shoots up within seconds and red lights. If you pull over and shut the car off (is not overheating) and restart the car, temp goes back to normal. Drive for 30 miles and it happens again. Again, it is not overheating and when restarted after just minutes, temp is normal. Seems more of an electrical/computer issue than mechanical.

service engine soon light stays on

took it to autozone and ran codes. said it was and o2 sensor. also ran codes from a different machine which indicated something about left bank heater? everything was fine until i had the clutch replaced.

drove car thru deep water flooded engine

this is the worst car ive ever owned it happened suddenly without warning , how do i fix it

do u think it is the alternator

the radio will just stop working sometimes you can turn it off and then back on and it will play again then sometimes it will take awhile before it starts working again please help

when i turn on the headlights the instrutment panel lights and the heater light goes out all the guages and signal,high beam check engine and brake indicators still work i have headlights and the park lights still work.. i have checked all the fuses and bulbs and replaced the headlight switch

Temp Guage is sometimes(most of time) not working when it doesn't there is no heat. Bought T-Stat and was told to replace and flush heater core both directions, not sure of procedure. Thanks for your help.

If it is electrical, can a "regular" shop fix, or does Mercedes have the equipment to fix only? That happened to me last time, I took car to two shops and spent $100 each for them both to tell me Mercedes was the only one able to fix. Any "regular" shops in the Dublin, Ohio area?

I am wondering, is it the seal, the hub or both?

and not making contact with the bottom of the cap causing the low level light to show up on the car.

The a/c blows really cold just when i switch it to heat, it never gets hot

my ULEV engine requires 5-30 and 10-30 got put in at last oil change and P1167 code appeared right after driving it. It had both the P1166 and P1167 codes together and I replaced #1 02 sensor, cleared codes and only P1167 came on after a few minutes of idling. Car runs perfect other than a slightly noticable lower idle speed - maybe 200rpm lower than normal. My thought was maybe the thicker oil produced a pcv atmosphere with a higher concentration of oil coating/dirting up the sensor wire. What ya think