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The Check engine light keeps coming on and every time it is the p0300 code. Not sure what exactly is causing the problem. It only comes on when I'm driving over 15 miles and when driving and just applying very little pressure on the pedal is when i can feel it start to stumble or hesitate. Never a problem when accelerating. I have an OBDII with live data to help me troubleshoot the problem, but don't really know what they the components should be reading as far as the MAF and MAP sensors. Compression test check out ok and as far as ignition i really don't think that could be it either because only time it has a problem is when adding just the slightest bit of pressure to the gas pedal. Anyone have any ideas to what i should look at or do?
I was driving down the road, lost power, plenty of juice, radio-headlight all working. Restarted once, died, the next morning it restarted once, I shut it off, would not restart. Making a click (only 1) and at low tone like a bump noise, when you try to start, starter does not engage at all.
It's like coming from the front defrost vent area.
when i start my car sometimes it very rough i keep driving and it stop what could it be.
dealer only gave me one?
what could it be some say wheel bearing and leaf springs or even u joints please help. it's diving me nuts.Thanx
have to let it set for 30 min to 45 min and it will start this happing all the time for the last 3 months.
I'am getting a P1345 Camshaft to Crankshaft Position Correlation fault code I did not remove distributor intermittently engine dies after startup intermittently engine loses power and backfires at under 1000 rpm when engine is reved up over 1000 rpm engine smoothes out I've heard timing is not adjustable I put a timing light on at idle in park and the harmonic balancer mark is not matching up with mark on the timing chain cover should they match up and is this an accurate way to check timing I can clear code when engine is running when engine is turned off and restarted code is set again installed new spark plug wires and air filter gapped plugs to .60" I put 1 cyl at TDC and dist rotor points to 1 cyl on dist cap.
Whenever im backing up turning the steering wheel, I hear a popping sound. 1 machanic told me that I need a right front lower ball joint and another said tie rod end boots.Which do I need?,confused again....thanksforyourhelp.
it has a strong cranking ut still wont turn over is there a reset switch or a fuse for the fuel i hear the pump running but it wont turn over first time this has ever happened
After it warms up the oil pressure drops , and the knocking gets louder . The oil pump in going , but what can the knock be , and what can I do to fix it ? This always happens , it seems fine when cold , though when giving gas at idle the knock will get a little louder , but faint still
car wont shift into first.
car wont shift into first.
what causes an acura to misfire, a small vibration in the gas pedal and when you start the car it cranks over but doesnt wanna start always? but once it started it runs fine with the check engine light on and the tcs light on. Now i have the o2 sensor code coming up along with misfiring codes? it seems like the engine is straving for fuel, I use high test 93 in my car.