put it on the machine and the codes read that it needed a pedal position sensor

The bolt on the inside of the control arm bar broke recently on my caprice. I was hoping I could just replace the bolt but after looking the area over it seems impossible. The problem has caused my driver side wheel to slant inward and steering has become tight. I stopped driving it the moment I heard the bolt break.

The trans lights will not go out even after programming. The trans is in need of replacement according to the diagnostic bmw mechanic. The abs light is coming on from the abs module . The coolant gauge registers overheating which is coming from a faulty thermostat and auxiliary fan. And the check engine light is coming on from the cam shaft sensor on bank.

I've never had an alignment.

was going to airport and the fuse started blowing

have a 2000 sts cadillac leaking oil at the rear lower engine,what options do I have as far as repair

Never really had any overheating after radiator replacement 4 years ago. Now i thought I had a water pump leak however the seam I saw leaking was on the plenum and since I am a novice I jumped to comclusion it was water pump and replaced it.
I am planning to try this job myself and am using a hughes engines plenum gasket/intake kit and a coynes chain and gears
I have just changed all 3 hoses the water pump and thermostat no leaks however the gasket of the lower plenum is leaking coolant now so I have to replace and while the cover is off I would like to replace with an aluminum cover and rubber gasket and replace chain and gears.
My question is approximately how much would this cost in an ASE shop? I have time to do it and there are plenty of help forums however I am starting to contemplate having it done as I read the manifold bolts are hard to remove and will break...not sure about that so if you get a chance please try to give me an idea what it might cost. Just trying to see if I could afford it....
Rick Sheltra

water pump need replacing at 60,000 miles when timing belt is?

The truck starts up and runs fine, but when i get over 20 mph the engine knocks hard and it keeps knocking when I speed up and when it gets past it, It starts to run fine again. Not sure what to do.

The engine smells like it is burning oil, and the last two times I've had the oil changed it's been 1 quart low. Should I have the oil pan gasket replaced or sealed, if it is the cause of the smell? What is the best way to tell?

replace filter

saw small leaks in garage every now and then but yesterday more fluid leak out while driving took to nearest shop and was told it would cost around $1,300 with parts and labor.

changed mass air flow and crank sensor won't stay running any more tried catalytic converter didnt work

Over a week ago she just cut off in traffic. She would start but cut off with a loud bang(like a gunshot). I had to tow her home and she set in the driveway for about a week and a half. On 3/19/2012 the fuel pump was replaced and she started up. I was glad if that but didn't try to drive her. I wish that I had, when in park you could give it gas and the engine would rave up. But when in drive or reverse I had to push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and she would not move at all. What is the problem.

if I jump across starter selinoid it cranks, jump starter enabler relay it cranks, but no fuel to injectors.