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I changed plugs coils extra checked vacuum lines any help?
or it will run out. is it a block in my tank?
replaced fuei pump drove it two days when i parked and tryed to start. it would not start took the top line of the filter loose and no fuel any ideal? thanks
Suddenly, upon start up, the engine roars and revs up to 1500rpm (2x normal). 5 speed manual transmission continues to roar especially when shifting up or down. When speeding up, shifting must be done faster than normal (i.e-when speed reaches 40mph, engine roars ever louder, and requires shifting up from 3rd to 4th gear when engine gets up to about 2000rpm instead of normal 3000). The engine isn't overheating, and no other signs of major engine failure (no backfiring, smoke or exhaust, etc.). Just sounds like a loud sports car or motorcycle with any muffler). Thought maybe just the muffler or valves but what could explain the need to shift up so quickly, loss of power in general)? Thanks
the check engine light is not coming on this time, what is that. I read it in my book but i do not understand what it means
i have a 2001 ls impala and had the heads and transmisson repair after the transmisson a knocking noise started
pulled left head put back togather started check eng light on runs good have little throtle response in park out of park nothing
coolant in reservoir is at proper level, but after driving 30 miles with AC on, temp needle goes over to hot. when AC is turned off, temp needle returns to normal.
Once the button depressed, the truck and windows open but the top will not open and start it's travel to the trunk.
I have a plymouth voyager, cold, it starts well, the problem when you run for a certain time,like 50 miles or so, that is when the problem arises, you don't notice it until you let go of the gas, the engine stalls and will not start, I must use starter fluid in the air intake to start it, then it can stall right after if I don't press on the gas, the problem started slowly and is getting worst,in the beginning of the problem, I was able to restart the engine (eventually) and would idle normaly until it stalled again 40 minutes later, I was tired and let it rest (I am on a trip)and ran well for 1 day until the condition got so critical(it got worst) when when hot, I must use starter fluid to start it to run (only when hot again)the bummer is I cant get towed because they wont find the problem since it will be cold and will run fine , they are plenty of power and changed the fuel pump last year because it stopped working, the motor has 165,000 miles on it and takes no oil
no check engine lights come on when the problem arises
when I unpluged the sensor on the air intake, the motor almost stalls then runs well and the check engine light up
so I figure the problem it is not that. I unplugged all the vacum cables and all it does is run more roughly
not a fun problem to have, especially when I am on a trip
When the parking brake is engaged, the release button is extremely difficult to depress (I had to use a soft-faced hammer once.) to get the parking brake to release. I need to know what the repair entails and an estimate of the cost. This is now occurring all the time and we are no longer using the parking brake.
Would it make any noises while running if it needed to be changed even if oil had just been added?
rear blower not workng too warm in rear of van only front works
My car turns easily, but it makes a loud noise when it does.