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Dealer: rough shift only on 3 to 2 downshift. Found transmission fluid dark. "performed short test, found stored code for selector lever is implausible, communication with engine module, and reverse/park lock solenoid fault" <- don't understand this. Normally would recommend a valve body, but mileage is high. Not confident will fix shift issue without cause clutches to slip. Best replace entire transmission.
I replaced steering column and it drove (a little rough at first) from madras to crooked river ranch. Replaced battery and column and turned key to accessory and got power to EVERYTHING. My lights, blinkers, windows, dash, etc.. Then I turned key further to start position and nothing happened. No noise, absolutely nothing. So, I tried to by pass by jumping the solinoid and it started up, ran good for about 2-3 seconds and then shut itself off. It did not sputter out or die out, it quickly stopped itself dead in its tracks and just shut down. Almost like the car realized "hey im not supposed to be running." Its getting plenty of fuel to the engine and Ive also got spark. I think my problem is electrical, and I think its my park neutral safety switch. When I installed the new column I messed with the little plastic park bar, manually, in order to get the gear shift on the column lining up correctly. Is it possible that caused the neutral safety switch to move with the gear shift but then not align itself back up correctly since I was doing it manually? And if thats the case, then how would I go about aligning it correctly again? Or is it possible that the park neutral safety simply went out, and if so how do I know?
fuel pump is only a year old,new fuel filter.
Some days more than others the car will take several attempts to start up, i turn the key and everything lights up and stuff but it just wont turn over and start. When i drive the car will sometimes lose pressure in the accelerator pedal and the rpm and mph drop, sometimes the other gauges also. This will lead to the car completely dieing or the RPMs go back up and the accelerator pedal gets pressure again and it will drive.
I will like to take it to a mechanic but i Want to have some sort of Idea of the problem so I do not get jerked around.
also with the key on and hood up -and me looking over the engine area - w/ cold engine - I hear a clicking sound every 1 second - but not a regular every 1/2 second in time - but a irregular clicking sound coming from the injector area or distuibtor area? last nite no problems - I run super gas on my V6 camry -did run fine for 1 year - only this morning no start? thanks Rob
My mustang would not start, replaced the battery, starter, etc. Unhooked the radio, checked fuses and filters. Several mechanics later still cannot find the problem. If the vehicle is started daily no prob, if not will not start. Something is draining the battery or there is an electrical problem. Will stop in the middle of driving also!! Any answers, please help!!!
moving up and down. What could be the problem and how can it be fixed?
under acceleration it runs perfect ,just at cruising at 35-40 mph truck surges slightly and tach jumps,could this be the spark plug wires ?
my 1994 camaro will turn over and act like its gona start but it will not keep fuel pressure and we have just replaced the feul pump with a brand new one and cleaned all the lines and we have no leaks so please help me because i dont understand whats going on
it makes a wining noise when i start it up and quits after warming up could that be the transmission pump
HOW TO CHANGE OR WHAT PROBLEMS ASSOCIATED WITH SRS TO SHOW?, DEALER SAID IT'S A DRIVER SIDE AIR-BAG WIRE HARNESS THAT NEEDS WORK. IS THERE ANYTHING ONE MIGHT DO UNDER DRIVERS SEAT TO, MAYBE CLEAN CONNECTORS OR ANYTHING? THANKS
please let me know
After finally reaching level ground it then takes off. In August I had work done on the front end. This started occurring after that.
drained radiator and did flush
After finally reaching level ground it then takes off.