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the rear heater hoses broke so we replaced them but now it just blows cold air. what is wrong?

Car does not shift out of park, bad brake switch

MY 2001 FORD RANGR XLT HAS BEEN ACTING UP LATLY AT FIRST I THOUGHT THE OIL BUT PUT OIL IN IN TODAY AS I WAS PULLING IN TO MY SCHOOLS PARKING LOT IT JUST SHUT OFF ON ME I HAV A BRAND NEW BATTERY IN IT NOW I HAVE A REALLY LOUD RATTLING NOISE THAT SOUNDS LIKE THE FAN BUT COULD BE THE ENGINE. I HAVE NO CLUE WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM I HAVE BEEN UNDER NEATH THE HOOD. WHEN I ACCELERATE IT KINDA SOUNDS LIKE A GO KART MOTOR ITS REALLY LOUD PLEASE HELP I HAVE NO MONEY OR IDEA WHAT COULD POSSIBLY BE WRONG

trying to see if i can change myself,and to see what has to be removed if any to get to crank sensors.

i have 99 toyota camry with knocking upper strut mount..

I have replaced the vacum, the accelaration cable. The CC does not hold a given speed. First accelerates and then I have to disengage it because is out of control

bought new computer and no change in truck.. was attempting to degrease enging a bit and sprayed her down w degreaser and water. would crank but not seeming to take gas. allowed to dry for 3 days, compressed air on all connections and under dist cap... was told to chk all vacuum lines and cant seem to find a bad one... any info you offer is great... at a loss .

I have a `94 caddy deville concourse (32v northstar engine). She turns on but throws alot of white smoke from the mufflers. The spark plugs have a little bit of oil around `em. I think she might need new valve cover gaskets. Also, the pigtail wire from the gas pedal to the throttle body is kind of blocked and clicks everytime i turn the car on and off. I think it she might be accelerated. Could that have something to do with the smoke?

Vehicle is a rear wheel drive 1999 Dodge 3500 5.9Liter with a vibration that starts at 55mph and gets worse at higher speeds.I have been advised to replace all u-joints and bearings from the transmission to the rear of a dual drive shaft.

automatically locks door when I close it. flashers go on
at various times.

My 360 is burning a good amount of oil and would prefer not to sell the truck, especially considering the fact that a newer and better one worth my time will cost at least 10 grand, which I don't have. I found a used engine at a scrap shop for 500 bucks but since it doesn't have a vehicle with it I cant start to hear it run and everything. How would I go about checking it so I don't spend a lot of time and money on an engine that is in sores shape than the one I have now. Thanks for your help.

also the temperature symble shows up on the dash

Since I'm not first owner, I don't have code number.
All I found on radio are these details:

PART NO. PO4858543AF-A
DATE CODE 3210
SUPPLIER 17719A
S/N TQ1AA321OA5228

Any help?
Thanks!

I just brought this car used car & found out it had these problems...

I was told it was a check engine light came on. I never had the light come on. I checked the fuse for the ECM and it was blown. After putting a new fuse in the check engine light came on, and a message REDUCED ENGINE POWER came on and the truck wouldn't go over 20 mph. I put the old fuse back in and the light and the message went away, and the truck runs fine.