I have seen this problem on at least 3 other silver trucks like mine. This has to be an issue, its the only place the rust bubbles are visible. Can someone help me with this issue ?

having trouble , cleared code p0174 found vacuum leak , changed all 4 o2 sensors, cleaned MAF sensor and now getting code p1151. I checked all o2 sensor plugs , found 1 problem,1 plug was not tight, I corrected, but I'm still getting the code. the Truck runs better then new but won't pass smog test.i read somewhere about possible plugged injectors and or broken wires.

dashboard lights went out came back on went out radio out but milage lights gear lights still on will not shut off headlights work what happened

Need Help any ideas welcome and Thanks ahead of time! Ok I have a 1987 300 zx non turbo, v-6, 5 speed. New oil pump, timing belt, plugs and wires cap button, new head gaskets worked heads intake upper and lower etc. Ok here is the problem it stumbles between 1400 and 2500 near to the point of shutting off. Acts like (A) lack of fuel or and (B) lack of air. Cleaned mass air flow sensor, Checked Belt timing, Checked distributor timing, set at 20 before top dead center, Checked idle set at 700 rpm, Replaced all Vacuum lines, Checked to make sure no vacuum leaks, has 35-45 p.s.i. fuel pressure. Has good exhaust pressure, will idle and rev without stumble but under load as driving stumbles.

When I changed it last I put full synthetic oil in it. I was wondering if how many miles can I drive it before messing it up? Sounds crazy, why not just go and get an oil change, but don't get paid for couple more days, so thats why.

dash board lights stayed off for 2 min. came back on and signal lights don't work doors won't lock automatically and gear lights milage light numbers are on will not go off.

I am not a mechanic but...can someone point me int he right direction in installing a new one its a 94 toy v6 3.0

what cause engine to not crank while hot.cranks fine when cold

4x4 not engaging

0ver 98,000 miles. Trans fluid is brown, needs to be changed. Dealer recommended a flush. Everybody has a different opinion. So flush or just add fresh transm. fluid? The vehicle slows down at acceleration and when gains steady speed, runs just fine.

The spring is cracked and needs to be replaced.

The control arms have been replaced

ok my raditor was leaking so i replaced it my temper needle was lightly before the half mark at that point but the engine seem pretty hot when i lifted the hood after driving for about 15 minutes ,unfortually the new raditor was defective and the needle is still at the same place but the engine feel hot when i put my hand over the engine when i get home after a 15 mintue drive. Is this normal for the van engine to feel heat coming from it after you park it, can my themostat be broke even if it read normal?

Already checked the fuses under hood and under steering column.

no rattling while driving normal speeds. rattling greatly reduced when i shift into neutral while stopped at traffic light. i have been driving with the rattling for months. just recently started having occasional difficulty shifting into reverse ( auto trans). feels stuck or being forced. brake warning light has also been on for about six mos.