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problem just started yesterday, and has gotten progressively worse. Hesitates nearly every time I accelerate from a complete stop. My battery and engine light came on. It even stalled once.I am no longer driving it. Is it my trans?
Hi I am experiencing intermittent fuel delivery problems, just before 2000RPM, sometimes
1500RPM is the limit but very seldom. The spark is fine throughout the engine “spluttering
/hiccupping“ (The car shakes violently. It will accelerate and decelerate and repeat this cycle as long
as I am on the throttle) so it is fuel delivery but at no specific time cold or hot and it may come or go
whilst driving. Extremely dangerous if you intend pulling off into the road and it strikes.
As it is intermittent and the vehicle may be fine in all respects for a month or more then without warning a 2000RPM limitation, whilst the engine is stuttering, if you maintain the RPM below 2000RPM the engine is smooth, whilst it persists it does it in Park, neutral and drive, when first diagnosed the engine did it in Park & Neutral, I thought it was a design safety feature now not sure.
What is the issue, intermittent fault on a sensor/pickup or ECU, diagnostics didn’t pick up anything.
i want an estimate for transmission and labor costs for my jeep.
She ran it out of oil now the engine is flooded does not make sense to me
Car rides like an Oldsmobile -- very soft and floaty. The miles are relatively low and the ride quality seems ok. The tires are not wearing oddly, but I plan buy new tires this summer (2013). Does it make sense to replace the front struts and shocks before the new tires go on?
ok i now have a code 25 after installing a brand new iac? ran for two days and to to shop.
the gas tank looks like its collapsing in on itself.
Rust in fuel system.
Will not start.
Changed both fuel filters.
The info screen under my raido on my 1998 328i for the past year or more has been saying "Brea light circuit see owners Manuel" but there has never been a problem with my break lights. recently they stopped working and i put in new bulbs and they still dont work, i checked the fuse for the break lights and it's good. any ideas on whats wrong?? :.(
Replaced the water pump and now it is leaking around the so called water housing unit but I cannot find the correct part to order
the cooling fan does not turn on ever,causing car to start overheating.. temp gauge gets warm/hot
Is it safe to clean your engine at the car wash?
I am having trouble with things cutting in and out the wipers, windows, inside lights and now the heater is staying on after I turn the truck off. I was told it was the ignition lock cylinder by some people I went to get one and was told the ignition lock cylinder would not cause it that it would be the multifunction switch witch one is the most likely problem
The A/C works perfectly fine. Yet when switching over to the heater nothing but room temp air blows out. This problem started at about 90,000 miles. Im planning on selling the truck soon and i would like to get it fixed. It has been freezing winters with the heater not working. I have had to replace the fan once before due to the wire harness connectors melting to the fan. Could that have started the problem? Or is it the A/C / Heater actuator not working? The truck now has 110,000 miles on her.
Hello, who can help me please? I have Mazda MPV 2001 couples of days ago I changed sparkplugs I toke out intake manifold, I toke out Air filter housing, and I washed the intake manifold with diesel. After putting all together the engine lost its power, the Over/derive light blinking, it doesn’t run more than 12 miles doesn’t mater how I push the gas pedal, the engine RPM goes up and down, and make coughing. I am waiting for and suggestion, with what I missed up here?