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Is It possible Ill have to change the evap canister if I found the black soot in my gas?
I changed the fuel pump and bled the fuel line til it ran from the injector lines, so I know and hear Its getting gas, but now I have a new code (46)- It ran for 5 mins andI still have the same problem, Im hoping its not the voltage regulator- I know where that is.. battery and alt tested and good and new cranksensor, I have a box small relay looking with connection that are NOT bolted back to the frame on the side of the battery like the foudation broke and dont know what thats for- had a little back box with 2 prons (prons connnect) component just not grounded - will only start with starter fluid and has a half tank of gas!It ran for 5-8 mins yesterday died, and refused to restart. battery was fine this morning didnt need a jump and after a few 5 trys jumped one time trying to start 17degrees here. Left alone so I wont have to get a nother jump in case I get time to try later. after running tryed to drive in forward and cut off before the thought completed-- thanks again- Use to start with no problem! and only had problems during driving
Old hydrolyic valve lifters making moises, so I have them replaced with new lifters, but still making noises.
So I have the new ones checked if there is oil in the lifters. There is no significant oil in them. I believe the lifters' oil supplies pipes and so on, need to be clean/cleared up for oil to flow better. I'd appreciate any recommendations for solvent or liquid solution used and methods!. Note the oil pump is working fine, with enough oil pressure.
alot of greas on wheel. i figure its a seal.
i power washed the car and now it will not run it says no bus on the dash i put a new batter in the key and still doing the same thing
recently started having this problem white smoke coming out exhaust
PCM died at 90,000 miles... Need to get this beautiful car running again so I can drive it out of the local Ford servicing dept where it has been for over 5 months.
firing order with a detailed diagram
I had the sensor replaced but the gage will not register. My car ran hot due to a clog in the radiator cap.The cap was replaced the radiator hose was replaced and the sensor was replaced but the temp gage is still not back to working properly... and my service engine light came on but when I had it looked at it said it was the sensor. So we replaced it.
When every you enter the truck, make a left turn, hit a bump or sometimes just driving down the road you hear a squeaking noise.
The vibration occurs at around 30 mph to 60mph and can be
felt in the steering wheel?
Got the O2 sensor replaced. The invoice says they used 234-4048, but Amazon website says this part does NOT fit my car!!
Sometimes it resets after a few miles. The last time it reset with 308 miles on it. When I start engine, it resets to 0.
and oil spots on garage floor.
High Pitched whine at cold start up. lasts about 30-45 seconds. Not affected by engine speed. After engine warmed up does not re-occur unless engine cools off say half hour or so. Seems to be located on front driver side. Did find info about replacement of the air emissions pump on a chev that seems to most look like it, but have not confirmed that it is characterized by a high pitched whine at startup as indicated above.