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car wont go into any gear..rmps dont work..was running great..replaced battery and alternator...cut lights on and it cuts off..was running great and just stopped...any help would be appreciated
Replace fuel pump with new GT280 connector Wiring is correct.What else could make the sensor light stay on?
The first time I had a problem I took my car into the shop and got a whole new power steering pump, a tune up, and new tires (spent a lot of money). I recently encountered the same problem when I turn and it has now happened when I go from park to reverse. When I turn, occasionally the steering locks up and it feels like my power steering is gone, all my warning lights on my dash come on and I put the car in park, shut it off and it works fine. The last two times it's happened has been when I was in park and then tried to put it into reverse, the car is on and the engine is on but something locks up to where I can't steer my car. I called my mechanic and asked him what he thinks and I'm bringing it in, but I don't want to spend anymore money than I have to. Does anyone know what my problem could be?
Had to replace compressor for a/c, the 02 compressor because check engine light came on and failed inspection, then passed inspection. Then all lights and gauges showed engine overheating, check engine light on, so thought it was the thermostat but took to Auto Zone and ran diagnostic check temperature sensor reading was at 104. Engine block reading temperature was 179 to 185. Diagnostics Codes show P0117 and P1000 and P1647. Thinking that temperature sensor is bad and it is not letting the fans turn on? NEED HELP PLEASE. Car has 64,000 miles only and mint condition. Need to fix ASAP. Thanks!
car dash & owners manual say my car is a quattro but twice i have gotten stuck in the snow & only 1 front wheel spins.... What gives I thought all wheel drive meant power to all wheels
I had my 2008 hyundai accent diagnosed at advance auto when the check engine light came on because the car sounded like it wasnt running on all cylinders...the check came up that the 1 and 2 cylinders were miss firing...i first changed the plugs and switched the coils and had it checked again and the same results came up...so i asumed it to be the fuel injectors...i bought some used ones and replaced the 1 and 2 cylinder injectors and it still runs the same.........any ideas of what it could be???
i have replaced trans,flt wheel,fuel pump n filter,starter, alternator,fuel inj-hoses (spider),radiator,water pump,2-freeze plugs,2- bushings,ign-module,spark plugs n wires n filters... truck runs great in drive way but when i drive n temp reaches normal level it starts bogging n when i give it more gas it turns off n will not start for 4 to 5 hrs , sometimes it will start right up n sometimes i need to get a jump . I have taken it to 2 mach shops n 1 back yard mach n the Chev dealer they ran diag on it said it was ign-mod replaced it n it still doing the same ...does any one know what it could be ???????????????
when i drive it it makes a sound like a noise maker up front of my car
A Transmission Mechanic using a diagnostic machine was under the belief that a P1740 code was the cause of a defective torque converter, solenoid. If so, he stated he would be required to break apart the transmission to investigate requirements such as parts, labor etc. so that an estimate would be given to be.
Your estimate is very important to me because I have an Automotive Warranty that states, "Transmission/Automatic or Standard:
The internal components of this automatic transmission or manual transmission, drive chain, drive chain gears, carrier bearings, internal transaxle seal. The manual transmission case and automatic transmission case and torque converter are covered if damaged by the failure of internally lubricated by the failure of internally lubricated parts, Transmission Mouts, Oil Pan, Flywheel Flex, Plate, Vauum Modulator.
I've noticed also that when travelling a sudden sense of speed begins to drag while accelerating. With respect to internal lubricated requirements my records show quarterly maintenance service. No oil spills when parked in my garage floor."
If RepairPal knows the name and phone number of a Transmission Dealer, if would be appreciated
I would sincerely appreciate receiving a response to my
"What's My Question and an important repair estimate .
My e-mail is: larregui.dick
The dealer is quoting me $600. Is this a fair price? The steeriing "pops" when driven and the dealer says the steering rack needs replaced. Thank you
you can floor it and it goes threw all the gears then when you let up (75 mph) it is no longer in gear and will only drive in low you can stop and floor it but when you let up it will not stay in the high gears it has new torque converter.
I've notice my mpg has gone down as well, but everything else seems to be working fine. I recently had my starter replaced, and I read here that I should get a fuel system cleaner with PEA to put in with a full tank of gas once per month.
I'm getting my tires rotated for free, but I'm not sure how often I should do it - every 6,000 miles? I'm also using synthetic oil and getting it changed every 5k miles. What do I need besides a transmission flush every 30k miles? Do I need a 100 point inspection or whatever?
Thanks for your help
When the weather is cold and rainy here in Virginia, my windshield will get all foggy and streaky decreasing my visibility greatly. I've cleaned the inside, tried directing the cold/hot/or warm air toward the windshield, opened windows - everything to get it to clear up. The air flow doesn't seem to be very strong from the vents on the dash (which should blow directly onto the windshield). I'm on a small budget, but desperately need it fixed. What should I ask them to look for and about how much should it cost?
just wondering which fuse exatly is for the stereo. I checked under the hood & didnt see one labled for the stereo