Drove for 2 days after pad replacement then brake warning light stays on. Found the front reservoir EMPTY - back one is fine. Removed caps prior to forcing pistons open for pad replcmnt. Still driving (and stopping) for a week but find the front res. empty daily. How do I proceed?

the rear passenger side? Now after body damage fixed my car is making a serious noise in the front left. The person who hit me was on the rear passenger side that damaged the rear wheet that had to be replaced. Please help, the person who hit me her insurance company is giving me tough time and saying it is not due to accident. My car was not making any such noise before the accident and had all four new tires with less than 1000 miles on each. I appreciate your answer and time.

It's throwing a lot of smoke... sometimes when i first start it it doesn't blow any smoke, after a while of revving the engine it starts running rough and smoking heavily.. I'm really at a loss.. only 100,000 miles I think it may have to do with the fuel injectors as i don't see a cause from anything else.. No blow by gasses from the oil filler the engine sounds good... no knocking.. would clogged injectors cause excess smoke and poor idle? Undrivable in it's current state.. i know it has got to be something simple. PLEASE HELP!

type of automatic transmission fluid to use

The Green light is on but the cruise control will nor engage.

car lunges forward cannot check fluid on transmission. cannot go faster than 20-30 mph

car will not start want even turn over when u try to start it

both epc, battery, and engine light are left on when trying to start the car hence the engine light was on before but hope this help more once the key is put in the ignition the head light turn on automatically but once when trying to start the vehicle they get cut off also there is a clicking noise but that always has been there every time i start the vehicle

I was driving and the van wanted to up-shift (like it was going up hill). Now I can't get it to go any faster than 30mph, it will shift fine. When you start it, it sounds fine, but when you step on the gas pedal, it sounds horrible. What's going on?

1986 maxima- high mileage but ran great with no fluid leaks. Fuel pressure and fuel pump checked out. Replaced crank angle sensor (complete distributor). Replaced Throttle position switch and cleaned Mass air flow meter and sensor with cleaner specifically for MAF sensor. Checked voltage and ground at connector. The ECU has self-diagnosic mode which consistently shows two codes: load signal and Throttle position switch/circuit. My haynes manual offers no clue as to what comprises the "load signal".

My car sill randomly loose pressure at 40 mph. The engine light comes on but a day or overnight the speed returns to normal this has been happening for about a month. Is that the symptom? and how costly is that to repair

it has fuel and spark. it was running but rough at startup, but won't start now

if timing belt/chain breaks how much damage

The remote is still not working and must need resetting. Baker Cad. says they charge $30.00 to reset it and it probably will need to be replaced at $125 plus the reset fee. That sounds outrageous, is this in line with other repair shops? Miller Cad. wouldn't have charged to reset a remote. Also the trunk has been opening by itself since the remote went bad. This happened while the remote was on a table unmoved. What would cause that? I need to keep the trunk locked.

The regulator is out of vehicle.