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The car idled at 1100 rpms. I tried to adjust it with the idle screw, and it only dropped down to 900-800, and then the idle started fluctuating around that range as well. How can I fix this problem? I can't lower it any more with the idle adjustment screw.
I had it diagnosed and the repair was to replace the valve covers and gaskets and reseal the baffles. After 2000 miles I had to put 2 quarts of oil in it again the other day (check oil level light came on). I have never had a burning smell, just warning light and then low reading when I check the level. Now they are telling me it's not unusual to have to add a quart or two of oil, especially with highway driving. It had never happened before these last few months. The car has a little over 107,000 miles on it.
The shop (a dealership) where I usually took my car to told me my car is leaking power steering fluid and gave me an estimate that is just too high. I have doubts about the claim and also from previous experience, I just don't trust their expertise 100%. First I add power steering fluid to full and then check the level in the reservoir every week to see if the level has fallen. The check is done every Saturday morning before the car was started.
I did notice a very slow decrease over the course of about 6 weeks.
Can that be the verification that the power steering fluid is indeed leaking ?
A mechanic told me that my car has a timing chain. A second mechanic at the same shop (at a different time) told me that my car does not have a timing chain, and that I only needed to worry about changing the belt now (95,000 miles). Is the second mechanic correct?
It gets louder when I accelerate from stops. I've seen answers to similar questions - poss water pump or fan clutch. How easy are these to replace myself? Thanks!
What should i try first?
Two weeks ago the automatic air controller would not go up or down I can turn temp levels up/down but I can not turn it off.
How many hours of labor does this job take?
2000 350 super duty you can drive for three hours and then start loseing speed or power.But you can stop for ten min. start up again and will run fine.I had the tranmission replace but still have same prob.
my cl600 2005 had a busted hydrolic hose after repairing it the car wont go wont go back up
could it be the switch and if it is where is it located
Recently had my 2003 Passat V6 serviced for oil loss and hot oil/burning smell after driving by a reputable local shop. They changed the water pump and tensioners and etc. When I picked up vehicle from that service, the heater temperature control did not work and they had to "burp" the cooling system. Now I've had to add amost a gallon of the Dexcool coolant over the past 4500 miles. No external signs of coolant leaks or no evidence of coolant in the crankcase. Reputable service shop nows says there may be a leaking headgasket that will require 2 days of labor to see if there is coolant leaking into cylinders. Anyone have similar issues?
Car has 90,000 miles and I'm original owner. Serviced every 5,000 miles since new and never had an issue with coolant loss even though it has been changed/flushed at recommened intervals up to now.
New Plugs wires maf sensor cleaned injectors
trying to turn off Maintence light
I have checked each vacuum line and each holds 8" mercury rock solid. all actuator levers working properly. Vacuum from source and vacuum tank working properly. Electric motor on mixing chamber working correctly when cool or hot is selected. Running it threw cycles all functions i.e. defrost, floor vents, dash vents working properly. I have run out of ides, any suggestions would be appreciated.