OBDII inspection failed.catalyst not ready; evap. system not ready; O2 sensor not ready; ...............Not supported (items): heated cat., sec.air, A/C system, EGR. All other OBDII items show Ready. I recently replaced the battery and the alternator checks good. No check engine lights. I drove 30 miles at 6- to 70 mph and O2 Sensor shows Ready now.

the 3757all is oer, someone wants to sell led (too expensive)

especially if i start it in the am, itll misfire anywhere above 1500 rpm sounds kind of like its slurping air and very sloppy, i checked vacuum for leaks and its sealed properly, and i have been forced to drive the vehicle for a while to work (80 mile round trip 5 times a week ) and today i noticed that all of the sudden my vehicle lost a lot of pulling power while i was giving it some gas on the highway, and now no matter what i do it seems that if i give it gas anywhere above 2500 rpm it wont pull any harder, wondering it its got something to do with the trans ? also, can you help me diagnose the root of the problem in the first place ? ( as far as i got was i need spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, (( unfortunately my vehicle has the ""spider"" injection system thats famous for breaking on my engine,... just very confused and scared as to why the sudden loss of power, ( and misfire reduced btw (usually happens when im close to shifting gears now barely any misfire, and half my horsepower....) Help !!!!! i really need to have a proffesional opinion of whether i should sink more money into it or buy something new !! if there is any way of speaking live to a consultant on this matter i would greatly appreciate it!!! "" thanks in advance !!""

Wondering if this problem is on a recall or service notice. Our Chevy dealer did not think there was... We got lucky and put the fire out quickly, but the replacement parts are nearly $200 and we don't think the fire was caused by anything we did, it was inside the relay and the circuit it's on did not blow the fuse. Anyone hear of this problem on other Chevy SUV's with rear A/C?

i was at the store open the door put the grocery on the back seat when i got home the rear door would not unlock all other were ok.

A few weeks ago, I went to start my car and all the lights were flashing and car didn't start. Jumped the battery, got the car running; but ever since my air bag light has stayed on and the driver's window is slow, the auto up/down feature not working, and if the driver door is open, I can't pop trunk or gas lid or roll down ANY of the windows. Is this 2 seperate problems? My car isn't under warranty anymore either.

(95 Accord LX 2DR coupe F22 SOHC NON-VTEC) Within the past 5 years ive replaced the fuel pump, the fuel filter, the entire ignition system,the V.S.S, Cleaned fuel system and injectors multiple times and ive checked all of these in the past few days. The car has been running perfect for years besides those few problems, hasnt sputterd or stalled or had a problem shifting at all. 3 days ago i put it in reverse backed up about 3 feet and it died and hasnt started since. The D4 light started blinking and c.e.l light came on when i went to re start and it hasnt stopped since. also The fuel pump is not running as it should before start up now. ive checked the fuses and ive checked every plug on the tranny and the motor. ive checked the tranny solenoid wiring and found nothing. ive read a few things about it possibly being one of the main relays which i have yet to check. Alot of people assume it to be the vss but ive crossed that bridge before and had completely different problems than what i have now. Again... backed up, car died, D4 light flashs,check engine light came on, and fuel pump stopped priming system and car wont start all at the same time, car just turns over and over without luck. i havent jumped the plug on the pass side to get my codes yet but i plan on it...pleeaase help

started leaking around rear main now throwing oil around dipstick

Detection pump control circuit low

We purchased this car used from a neighbor. He indicated there was a problem, but they assumed it was the Throttle Position Sensor, which he indicated was an inexpensive part to replace. Since then, this car has been towed home on at least 4 occasions, it has stalled out at intersections--the RPMS just drop off and it stops idling. We have replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, coil, distributor, plugs, wires, crank position sensor--and it still stalls. The auto mechanic hooked the car to the computer and it and nothing appears to be malfunctioning. Then we get it home and it stalls again. This car is like a money pit--we thought it would be reliable for our daughter and it spends more time at the repair shop than on the road! I don't even want to insure it anymore because we rarely get to drive it. Last month it was at the shop for 6 weeks.



I don't know the part #s. I tried E-bay & the parts weren't wide or long enough.


I have Toyota Camry 2000. In the morning (after 6-8 hours of rest), the car does not start up normal. I have to press the gas pedal and then start. If I pump the gas pedal and crank up, it starts. Then I have to keep the pedal pressed for few minutes and then go. I have change the fuel pump and filter

Why is happening? Someone pls help