examined by Honda dealer in Reynoldsburg Ohio one year ago for same noise and found no reason for rattling/grinding sound...and now 1 year later mounts are worn...hefty repair bill...never had this problem in any other car, especially Hondas!!

The balt looks OK, The power stirring oil level is fine, Could it be the transmission?

Sometimes when i'm driving either on the highway/city, my speedometer will start fluctuating and will hesitate to accelerate/jerk. It will snap out of it eventually and return to normal driving. The "O/D off" light will start flashing code 11. What do you think the problem is?

getting a DTC code 462 low input ckt A after replacing fuel

My 2004 Cavalier stalls after warmed up while I'm backing up and the ABS/Engine/low trac comes on with TWO battery lights on dash then it stalls, kind of sputters. I had Drive train put in and new spark plugs too. What could it be? Thanks. It usually occurs in the morning and I let it run over 5 mins.

only when i clamp the heater hose then i get cold a/c

i need to no what type of tool i need to remove lock nut from cv axle on passengers side.

Im thinking about buying a 2000 Mercedes Benz ML430, but it has an error code.

how do I tell which side is bank 1 and if it is the front or back

put new plugs,wires and egr valve in.
map senser still good plenty of spark from the coil pack

I took the car on a Thursday morning for an oil change, inspection, and to check the reason for the clunking noise. I was told when I picked up the car the same Thursday evening that the wheel(s) "might look like its slightly turned and that this is normal when new struts are installed until the car is driven for awhile." The clunk is gone which really didn't occur on every turn. Now the wheels squeak/screech when turning and sometimes when driving straight, the steering wheel feels loose when parking, and most annoying and 'scary' is the rough ride. When the car goes over a bump or dip (even the lines going across a highway), the impact is so hard I can feel it in my seat and it jars my back - it feels like my seat is sitting on top of 'something' hard. It hits so hard that it feels like the wheel(s) is going to snap off. When only one wheel goes over a dip (even slightly recessed manhole), it feels like the the car pushes to the side. I took the car back to the shop Tuesday morning, and was told that an alignment and 'cam kit' will solve the problem in addition to driving it more.

At least two stone chips in the paint on the hood have resulted in bubbled paint and rust. Rust has also erupted near on headlight, with no evidence of a nick or chip.

I noticed that my low fuel light flashes sometimes now even though I have more than enough fuel

My car will crank up if I put a key into it, but when I try to move the gearshift from park to reverse, it's almost like its jammed. I have my foot on the break, and I've tried shutting down and restarting the car multiple times. I've tried releasing the E-brake, and trying to move the gearshift..

To add to this, now the car wont shift out of park.