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is there a reset switch or some fuse that needs reset or is my tranny goning out
Rear air shocks do not level for a smooth ride. Rear shocks rides high and car bounces over bumps like being on a boat
muffler replacement is not an option when looking for estimates.
I need repair/replacement proceedure (R&R) secondary a i r pump. Code P0410 appeared on scan. Is this a repair something a shadetree mechanic should be able to do?
Car has 78,000 miles. I just had front brake pads replaced. Afterward, steering wheel has been shaking when I brake. (Never did that before.)The service shop (a Honda dealership) said they resurfaced the rotors, applied the pads, and their measurements were fine. But, they said that after 3-4 resurfacings the rotors might get too thin and warp, even though their measurements didn't show this, and that I probably need new rotors. Are they telling me the truth? Is it safe for me to drive the car in this condition? Are new rotors to be expected after 78,000 miles?
The horn was very sensitive, all I had to do was brush it with my purse or elbow,etc and it would blow. It didn't stick or stay on but was annoying. Had my garage people look at it and when they got done, it didnt ever work again! They denied they did anything to make this happen. Now the horn will not work at all..O'rileys man said it could be a connection under the hood.. Already checked the fuses under the dash, any other fuses I should check?
ABS light stays on as it did when I purchased it used.
i have a 92 nissan 240sx and a couple of months ago it started chugging reall bad so i changed the fuel filter and it helped but started again a couple of wks later and i let it get down to the red light coming on for the gas and after that it started dying despite putting the walmart gas cleaner in from the pump. it started dying when i came to a stop and i put
some fuel cleaner in from oreillys and it did good for a short distance then it started again with the chugging and dying so i changed the fuel pump and it didnt help, so i changed the filter again after it wouldnt start-hasnt done that before but is just turning over briefly then conking out and does the conking out faster when i press the gas. checked the plugs and dad said they look normal-a lil charred but no gas smell. is there some electrical thing i need to check cuz those fuel injectors are 85 a pop and i got 4 and i am hoping it doesnt come down to doing that, i might have to take it to a mechanic to see if they can do a diagnostic...but that has to wait til payday. but any info would be great!!!!!
diagnostic said the canister purge valve solenoid needed replaced to turn check engine light off. Where is it on engine and how much is the part?
Had a bad experience with mechanic. Claimed the heads cracked resurfaced them. When he returned car a vibration under hood, we looked and when you put foot of gas left side of engine lifts up out of the car
usually takes 20 to 30 minutes to get hot
I jacked up the car, took off both front wheels and put the tranny in neuteral. When I turn the barke rotor on the driver's side it makes a little grinding noise for about one quarter of the turn and it's noticeably harder to turn than the passenger's side rotor. On the road there's no noise but the car pulls to the left. The brake pads are almost gone, could that be the reason? I also changed struts myself a few months ago, could I did something wrong? Thanks!
My icon key went on...what does that mean?
I smelled a burning wire, the high beam light came on and will not go off. It runs my battery down. I need to know how to fix this so i won't get cheated.
I have been leaking from the oil pan gasket.